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The Verge Inn 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X [details]
FA: 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 37
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Nov 20, 2015

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Description 

Several dicey 5.6 and 5.7 moves on both pitches, and lots of terrain where a fall would be fatal.
P1: Climb subtly-divoted slab past a couple shallow pods (maybe some Tri-Cams?) to reach a left-rising vertical seam/crack. The crack is mostly worthless for pro, but there are a few spots that will provide good pro with finger-sized cams. Unfortunately, most of these are located along easier portions of the route. When the going gets tough, the pro evaporates. A final steep bit of slab blocks the easier top-out onto a large ledge. 110' 5.7 X
P2: Walk left 35' to the right edge of another slab. Step out onto the slab, which puts you immediately 70' up the slab. Make a difficult move - this has no gear, but you can place your belayer above you on the ledge and thus have a sort of top-rope belay for the initial difficulty - then climb easier slab for 8 m to another steeper slab section. More unprotected friction moves, this time without benefit of clever belay stationing, get you to easier, albeit still unprotected slab climbing to trivial terrain. Belay off a handy tree on the right edge. 140' 5.7 X
You can either walk off right and scramble/rappel down to the base, or continue up trivial slab leftward and off, then walk diagonally down to get around the cliff and walk back to the base.

Location 

Begin on the slab right of the twin seams of The Verge, eschewing both those seams and the left-rising seam to the right (part of Waterfall Left ).

Protection 

Possibly some small Tri-Cams or C3s here and finger-sized cams on the first pitch, very little or nothing on the second pitch, albeit there are some tree branches you might lasso.
This is an old-style, deadly-dangerous route.


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