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The Fin
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Dark Horse T 
Dorsal Fin, The T 
Fin Arete, The T 
Fins and Needles T 
Fish For Brains S 
Gills, The T 
Hand Drills Suck! T 
Hook, Line and Sinker T 
Lateral Fin, The T 
Lyin & Cryin  T 
Other Intentions T 
Pabst Schmear, The S 
Ventral Fin, The T 
Wasatch Harlem T 
Wave of Mutilation, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Ventral Fin 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2-3

Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2-3 [details]
FA: Smoot Bros. 1982
Season: anytime except the middle of summer
Page Views: 1,430
Submitted By: Stevie Nacho on Jun 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Jonathan cleaning the 3rd pitch.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


The cruxes to this route are following the second pitch and the lasso at the beginning of the fourth. Each pitch is fairly short, yet have great features and moves. The nailing is straightforward and cams appear every couple of placements. The third pitch gets thin, with multiple tied off blades. Every belay has new (2009) bolts along with every lead bolt.


This route is located on the right side of the fin high above Altered States Gully. Approach as for the Dorsal Fin, then do a 5.6 pitch which angles up then right for a full rope length. Some simi-climbing is needed to reach the chain anchor for The Gills. The first pitch starts to the left (west) of the chain anchor. This is the short bulge crack (8') that traverses left (west) to a bush.


-One set of hand sized cams (Black diamond .75-3)

-Two sets of t.c.u.'s (Metolius purple, blue, yellow)

-One orange metolius cam, One red metolius cam.

-One set of HB Brass off-sets.

-Some medium stoppers.

-An assortment of blades, (we used about ten)

-An assortment of lost arrows (we used about six)

-A few beaks or Rurps (we used two beaks)

-Bunches of slings

-A copy of the topo

Photos of The Ventral Fin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4
Pitch 4
Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan drilling (above a ledge) on the epic 5th ...
Jonathan drilling (above a ledge) on the epic 5th ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Original Topo
Original Topo

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By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Jun 28, 2009

The bolts are all new as of 2009, but there are a few old bolts in which we couldn't remove. Please take the necessary tools to "yank" these and patch the old holes.

Kudos to the Smoot brothers for the lasso on the fourth pitch. I'm sure it will remain one of my most mememorable moments in that canyon. It makes me want to go climb Nob Job.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 28, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3

A wonderful route to train for a big aid climb in Yosemite. The crux is the second person cleaning the traverse over the big roof. Also - the old guide never mentioned the lasso of the nob - a solution you MUST recognize to succeed on the route. Great route.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 25, 2012

Still one of my favorite routes in this canyon. Can't wait to come back.

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