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Velvet Pedestal, The T 
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The Velvet Pedestal 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: D. Pearson, J. Nelson
Page Views: 1,565
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 24, 2015

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Description 

P1: 5.9. Start in the blocky corner. It gets cleaner and nicer as you go up. After an intermediate chained anchor (~15-m up; do not belay here), there is a 5.9 finger-crack/layback move on a right-leaning crack that goes up to some hand jams behind a flake. At the top of the flake, and just upon reaching the steep finger crack, traverse left on the sloping ledge to a chained belay anchor.

P2: 10a. Walk left past the tree. Then traverse left on the slab past the bolt. Face climb up the minor roof to a left-pointing layback crack, and then left-trending layback crack. Good friction on the slabs, but no real footholds, so this crack is pumpy. Chained anchor on the ledge above. Except for the slabby start, this is classic Index corner climbing. It is somewhat like the 2nd pitch of Rattletale except pointing the other way.

P3: 5.8. Presently, the only way this has been ascended is by trending up and right to the large, left-facing corner with trees. It is presently uncleaned, and quite the grovel through trees, but when cleaned up will rival the super-classic second pitch. But not recommended even for fans of brush-tree groveling due to there being two loose flakes, one the size of a refrigerator door.

Face-arete variations to P2 and P3 have been cleaned off, but haven't been finished yet. Please wait on these.

Location 

Starts about 50' left of the start of Bowling to Biscuits. Ascend the fixed line that you use to reach Bowling, Peanuts, and the Cringe, but trend left instead of right. Look for the large, blocky, right-facing corner. Shares the same start as And Say.

Protection 

Full range from 1/4"-wide stoppers to 4" cams. Double in the 1-2" range.


Photos of The Velvet Pedestal Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: And say takes the right crack and velvet takes lef...
And say takes the right crack and velvet takes lef...
Rock Climbing Photo: There's the Pedestal.
There's the Pedestal.
Rock Climbing Photo: The velvet.  (Near the top of the 2nd pitch.)
The velvet. (Near the top of the 2nd pitch.)
Rock Climbing Photo: Deep in the velvet.  (If you have extra water, ple...
Deep in the velvet. (If you have extra water, ple...
Rock Climbing Photo: Following the layback section. The Velvet Pedestal...
Following the layback section. The Velvet Pedestal...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the pedestal on top.
The view from the pedestal on top.
Rock Climbing Photo: The final layback section, and crux, of The Velvet...
The final layback section, and crux, of The Velvet...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice stopper placement on P2.
Nice stopper placement on P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: On the second pitch of Velvet Pedestal, just past ...
On the second pitch of Velvet Pedestal, just past ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the first pitch, about to traverse to the b...
Top of the first pitch, about to traverse to the b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway up the first pitch. At the top of the block...
Midway up the first pitch. At the top of the block...

Comments on The Velvet Pedestal Add Comment
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 20, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

very nice route, thanks for the cleaning Derek and Jon.
the top is mostly .5 Camalot size.
By David Allwine
Sep 22, 2016

I lowered in from the top not knowing quite what this was. The second pitch is definitely a classic. It felt about 5.9 on TR, but I could see how placing gear might bump the grade up a bit. Really looking forward to the finished product on the third pitch. The more direct version in particular looks like a lot of fun. Thanks for all the work you've put into this one.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Sep 22, 2016

Great to hear.

My newly repaired knee ought to be good to go in time for the peak cleaning season (this coming winter), and with Derek back, we'll aim to hit this route right away.

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