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The Vaporizer 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: FA Shannon Stegg, FFA Andrew McDowell
Page Views: 1,605
Submitted By: Stephen Felker on Aug 13, 2012

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Tom Caldwell pulling through the crux roof

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>


Climb halfway up the low angle slab-ramp and step across to the featured vertical face with good gear and a high bolt. Achieve the ledge and step right to a small left facing corner capped by a left leaning, overhanging hand crack. Pull the bulge and work back left to a shallow left facing corner/flake with a bolt. Crank the roof crux past another bolt to a two bolt anchor.


Begin just uphill from the large ledge below “Boulder Problem in the Sky.”


Draws and cams to 3"; 70m rope recommended

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Rock Climbing Photo: The steep business
The steep business

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By shannon stegg
Mar 29, 2013

I climbed the route ground up first on aid but never freed it on lead. the falls were punishing! Andrew Mcdowell moved the crux bolt and placed it under the roof for a better fall. He then made quick work of it sending it with no hesitation! Very sweet climb. My hats off to the next generation it has been fun for an old fart like me to pass the torch to such talent!
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 24, 2014

This is one of the most cleanest and aesthetic face climbs at Whitesides. Solid rock, gear, and movement. This is probably my favorite single pitch at Whitesides and almost anywhere. Easily headpointed from the rap of Boulder Problem, but it deserves to be led.

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