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The Vaporizer 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Smith, May 1998
Page Views: 3,829
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 15, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Photo by Emile Mennin. Pat on Vaporizer.


An amazing long and varied climb involving technical skills and some endurance for the finish. What i noticed as i climbed was a bit of a mental game. Every move i climbed higher the more i didn't want to fall and have to start all over again. Crack climbing skills come in very handy up in the last few moves.

Start pretty much right above the top of the ladder. Climb a crimpy and technical sequence up to the nice comfortable ledge passing 3 bolts. The next section is another 3 bolt boulder problem which involves layback and gaston moves as well as some careful footwork. After being rewarded with another nice ledge weave your way through a series of ledges with less difficult climbing until you find yourself standing on one last rest looking at the steep exposed finish. Climb the corner above and move right in to powerful laybacks, a handjam and a potentially heart breaking move in to the final corner (stemming rest). Catch your breath in time for a breathtaking top out. Sit up there and take it all in. Amazing.

Unfortunately this route seeps for much of the year. If it's dry, CLIMB IT!


It starts at the top of the ladder/stairs climbing a face to the big ledge. It finishes to the left of predator, look for the anchors on the left side of the big prow.


14 bolts! to fixed lower biners.

Photos of The Vaporizer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lukas Vancura about to start the business of The V...
Lukas Vancura about to start the business of The V...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Vaporizer !
The Vaporizer !
Rock Climbing Photo: The Vaporizer seen from the top of the Orange Crus...
The Vaporizer seen from the top of the Orange Crus...

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By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Jul 15, 2013

This might be my favorite 12a at Rumney so far. Still I can only give it 3 stars because the its neighbor the Crusher is so much better despite being much easier too

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