REI Community
Frazier Lake
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cold Forged Steel T 
Leap of Faith T 
Vanishing Point, The T,S 

The Vanishing Point 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 7 pitches, 850'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Tom Kalakay, Bill Dockins, Skyler Pauli (2004)
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 271
Submitted By: Matthew Abbott on Jul 17, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

An interesting climb in a great setting with some pleasurable climbing on sharp pockets and crimps.

Walk up the scree 75 yards past the start to Cold-Forged Steel until you spot a little platform above the talus with a bolt up and right. Poor rock quality right off the ledge.

Pitch 1: 5.9
Climb past a few bolts through two bushes and trend left following bolts. Opportunity for gear as well. Two bolt belay on a little ledge. Rock quality gets better as you go.

Pitch 2: 5.10b
Climb the beautiful black rock following bolts. This pitch wanders a good amount so lots of runners help. Climb past a large crack/ ledge with gear and continue up to a two bolt belay.

Pitch 3: 5.10d
Aesthetically appealing and just as good to climb! Climb up the vertical black rock following bolts on great pockets and positioning. Move up and left on easy terrain to a large tree belay.

Pitch 4: 5.6
Climb up and right from tree and cross the large gully up to a little ledge with 3 small trees. There is really one safe spot to cross the gully so don't climb too far up before crossing.

Pitch 5: 5.10b
Great fun. Go straight up from belay and cruise above. Find a tree sticking out of a small grassy gully and belay off of it.

Pitch 6: 5.4
Climb grassy gully trending left and escape to a flat scree ledge.

Pitch 7: 5.5
Climb the summit tower on easy terrain and enjoy the great views.

Location 

75 yards uphill from Cold Forged Steel. Spot a little alcove and a bolt.

Same Rappel as every route on the buttress. Bring extra webbing just in case.

Protection 

15 quick-draws, half alpine. Cams from .5 to 2 , along with a set of wires. Webbing for slinging trees at belays.


Comments on The Vanishing Point Add Comment
Show which comments
By Fink Fink
From: Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
Aug 28, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

A really fun route and by far the longest outing on the buttress if you continue all the way to the top. That being said, there are opportunities to cut out left towards the shoulder and rap station after the crux pitch and before the final two pitches (expect chossy 5.5--5.6 with little gear if you do so).

As with most of the apline routes in the northern bridgers, expect to get crushed if the route is at your difficulty limit. The easier sections are sparsely bolted (20+' runouts are common), but there is usually a bolt when you really need one. For example, the first pitch (5.9) has ~10 bolts in ~200 feet of climbing, while the crux pitch has a bolt every body length through the business (but then has no gear for 30+' of easy climbing to the tree).

Important Gear Note

We had originally planned to climb Cold Forged Steel and brought the minimal rack for that (.5 and .75 C4). However, there was a party just starting up it when we arrived, so we bailed over to vanishing point with only mountain project as a guide. This was a mistake. For the most part, there isn't much need for gear---there were a few stopper and small cam placements that were nice, but far from mandatory. HOWEVER, you really really really want a couple larger cams for for the top of pitch 2. Failure to have cams in the #1--#3 range resulted in a 40ft runout on committing and blind 10- terrain. Even with a couple larger pieces, this section would still be committing, but in more of a 10' runout sort of way with less ledge potential. If I did this route again, I would rack a single set of cams through a #3 C4 and bring a set of stoppers.

More Pitch Descriptions

The start is a bit hard to find as the hangars are mostly camouflaged. Look for a small ledge 20-30ft up the scree, maybe 40' from the lowest point on the formation. First bolt is ~10' up.

P1: Straightforward 5.9 slabbage, gets progressively harder as you get higher. Goes pretty much straight up with some slight wandering and a small zig-zag to avoid a rotten flake near the top. 200', 10 or 11 bolts. Ends at a 2 bolt anchor at a small ledge.

P2: First bolt is 10' up and right, exiting the small scoop that you're in. Keep following reasonably spaced bolts through several short cruxes. I placed a stopper and then a .75 to cut down one runout through ~5.8-9 terrain. After ~10-120' of climbing, the bolt line will seem to dead end. There will be a lichen face straight above with a diagonaling blocky roof to the left of it. The next bolt is 20' up and left across a slab. Two bolts here pass the roof feature on the left. After clipping the second, you're staring down the mental crux of the route. A body length takes you to a large diagonal crack/gash with a mandatory large cam placement (looked to be a spot for a #1, certainly a 2 or 3, maybe even a #4). Several committing moves above the gash (maybe a janky micro-cam placement?) and then to the left will take you a thank-god-jug, followed by another 10-15' of easier climbing to another 2 bolt anchor on a large ledge (careful not to send rocks down to your belayer). Route could *really* use a couple bolts in this section. 10b PG13 (R/X without hand/fist sized cams), ~190'.

P3: Directly up from the ledge for 10 or 11 bodylength-spaced bolts through sustained vertical pocket pulling--excellent!! Devious and pumpy climbing with one slabby mantel and even a couple of sinker monos. After the last bolt, the face rounds over. Head up and left through about 40' of easy 5th and 4th class terrain to a large tree. 10d, ~160'

From here, we bailed (due to town commitments) to the shoulder of the formation and the rap station by running out a full 70m pitch of easy 5th--5.6 terrain, diagonaling up and left, following ledges and gullies where possible (handful of trees to sling for protection). Expect a similar mountaineering experience for the true 4th pitch, which heads up and right across the obvious gully.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About