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The Vampire 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c R [details]
FA: Wade David
New Route: Yes
Season: late spring to early fall
Page Views: 1,610
Submitted By: Wade on Aug 29, 2008

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This is a flared finger crack in a Ice Cream Scooped cave, it climbs out the roof to a walkoff.


In the main Ice Cave, it is the route that has a piton part way and you climb the finger crack out the cave and top it out.


C3-#00, quickdraw for pin, and a C3-#0. Yellow Alien, blue Alien, purple TCU.

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By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Aug 29, 2008

I think this has been sent recently. Sam Elias from Carbondale maybe.
By Wade
Aug 30, 2008

Jay, to my knowledge it has not been sent by Sam. I never asked him and I don't know him, but a few friends in Aspen said that he never did it on gear, and there were a few others trying to get the FA before me at the time. If you find out more info, please let me know. Here is my email:

By dr.natalie
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 31, 2008

Lotsa driving, lotsa weekends. Sick Wade.
By Wade
May 19, 2009

Jay, I emailed Sam on Facebook about this route, he did do the route, late summer but my ascent was more around July-ish. Hope this clears things up.

By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Jul 30, 2009

Yo, Wade, did you finish the outrageous proj?
I thought this crack was .12+, but it is my style of trad climb.
Cu you out there-jay brown
By Wade
Aug 7, 2009

Put a extra bolt in on the project trying it soon, it is red flagged till end of next summer.

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