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The Valley of Kings

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The Valley of Kings Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.07334, -116.14192 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Randy on Apr 20, 2003
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Holden flies up the variable chimney and stemming ...


This spectacular valley lies deep in the northern Wonderland of Rocks. It lies south of Rattlesnake Canyon and east of Lemon & Lime Domes. Routes are up to 200 feet or more in length, though most are about 100 feet long. There are 5 formations with established routes: The Helmet, The Lynch Crag, The Trad Crag, The Arrowhead, and The Corrugated Wall Climbers made tentative explorations into this area at least 25 years ago and later a few easier multipitch routes were established on The Trad Crag, However, no serous development occurred until the early 1990s.

Getting There 

This valley is best approached from Indian Cove (though it can be approached from Willow Hole, by passing down (east) the rocky gully between Lemon and Lime Domes). From the Rattlesnake Canyon Picnic Area, head up the Rattlesnake Canyon wash for about 400 yards; where the wash makes a sharp left turn (this is where you head right to reach the Corral Wall), the terrain become more jumbled; stay right of the wash/rocky stream on slabs until you head up through a notch; above drop back into the main wash. Follow the wash as it turns right (west)and levels and continue west for several hundred yards; past The Pyramid and Commissioner's Buttress.

At this point you can see a huge boulder field (the actual watercourse of the Wonderland Wash) coming down the hillside to your left (south). Head up this toward a notch in the hillside. Where the watercourse levels a bit, stay right and eventually reach a large relatively level valley. The Helmet will be seen almost directly ahead, the Valley of Kings runs to the left (east). Lemon & Lime Domes will be seen off to the right. Plan on about 1 hour to reach this point.

Climbing Season

For the Rattlesnake Canyon area.

Weather station 6.4 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Valley of Kings

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Valley of Kings:
The Sanga's On Fire   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   The Trad Crag
Firewater Chimney   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Arrowhead
Witch Hunt   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Slatanic Area
Powered by Old English   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   The Lynch Crag
The Last Stand   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Arrowhead
South of Heaven   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Slatanic Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Valley of Kings

Featured Route For The Valley of Kings
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the crux transition from the seam to the ve...

The Last Stand 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  California : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Arrowhead
This fine face route lies on the outside face of the Arrowhead flake. Begin on the right side of the face where a thin seam/crack heads up the face to about 1/2 height. Climb the face and seam/crack past 5 bolts (10c/d), move left and up on ultra thin face past the 6th bolt (12a) which leads to easier (10+/11-) but sustained climbing to a 2 bolt anchor (also used by Firewater Chimney). 90 foot lower/off and/or rappel. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

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