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Aasgard Pass
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Acid Baby T 
Valkyrie, The T 

The Valkyrie 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Blake Herrington, Scott and Graham, June 2012
Page Views: 3,281
Submitted By: Priti Wright on Sep 28, 2015

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The P4 rightward traverse to a lovely hand crack

Description 

It was a quality climb with only a few spots of dirty or mungy climbing. Crux is 2nd pitch.

Pitches:

P1. Up slab 5.8 to corner which is fun and protects well 5.10-. Belay at the orange
wall, big horn 10ft below orange rock. 5.10- 55m

P2. Step out right and into crack (fairly heady move) 5.10b/c. Continue up widening crack to a short off-width. A #3 cam fits in the back half way up, but the last ten feet it is useful to have a #5 if you are not comfortable with offwidth. Continue up to left facing hand crack 5.10. Belay at the end here on horn, semi-hanging belay or with a 70 continue straight up for another ~25m on face holds and cracks to a blocky belay. 5.10 55m

P3. Straight up cracks on the prow. Veer left at an angling ramp to a great belay ledge. 5.10- 35m

P4. Starts with a hidden traverse on jugs, straight right for 25', pull right under a hanging arête into splitter hands and fists not visible from below. Don't be tempted to go up the first cracks you see, if you keep going right you will get to the great hand crack. 5.8+ 40m

P5. Starts with easy cracks, and aim for the awesome steep headwall with a left arching splitter finger crack and wild knobs. When the finger cracks peters out you move up and right on knob jugs to the tower's prow. Belay here where it joins with the last pitch of acid baby. 5.10- 35m

P6. This is also the last pitch of Acid Baby. A wild ridge traverse with great exposure leads you to the top of a gully. Stick to the top for maximum fun. 5.9 40m~

Descent: Go up and around one more rock buttress and up and over a small col. Go down the chossy gully. There's a little 5.0 non-exposed downclimbing, and traverse on some ledges aiming for a small lake. Continue traversing to join the Aasgard Pass trail.

Alternatively continue up further to a larger chossy gully and down to the small lake and on to the trail.

Location 

To the left of Acid Baby

Protection 

Double rack to 3" and a #5 if you want to protect a 10' offwidth section.


Photos of The Valkyrie Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the final fin traverse to the top of Aasgard Se...
BETA PHOTO: On the final fin traverse to the top of Aasgard Se...
Rock Climbing Photo: The spectacular final pitch.
The spectacular final pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake leonard starting up P2.
Jake leonard starting up P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Janet on top of Aasgard Sentinel. Both Acid Baby a...
BETA PHOTO: Janet on top of Aasgard Sentinel. Both Acid Baby a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ethan Fitzpatrick leading pitch four (with style)
Ethan Fitzpatrick leading pitch four (with style)
Rock Climbing Photo: Janet at the end of the rightward traverse at the ...
BETA PHOTO: Janet at the end of the rightward traverse at the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: This was taken from just below the 5.6 downclimb f...
BETA PHOTO: This was taken from just below the 5.6 downclimb f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1. Plenty of options on the slab lead to ste...
Pitch 1. Plenty of options on the slab lead to ste...
Rock Climbing Photo: Janet climbing the wild (and steep!) knobby face.T...
BETA PHOTO: Janet climbing the wild (and steep!) knobby face.T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Taking a break in the late afternoon sun from desc...
BETA PHOTO: Taking a break in the late afternoon sun from desc...
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.9 cracks on Pitch 3 of The Valkyrie.
BETA PHOTO: 5.9 cracks on Pitch 3 of The Valkyrie.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hand/fist crack on on the second half of Pitch 4 o...
BETA PHOTO: Hand/fist crack on on the second half of Pitch 4 o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2 finishes with a bit of face. There are jus...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2 finishes with a bit of face. There are jus...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the low angle cracks on p4
Looking down the low angle cracks on p4
Rock Climbing Photo: The corner on the second half of Pitch 2 of The Va...
BETA PHOTO: The corner on the second half of Pitch 2 of The Va...
Rock Climbing Photo: Corner on Pitch 1 of The Valkyrie.
BETA PHOTO: Corner on Pitch 1 of The Valkyrie.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Pitch 2 of The Valkyrie. Goes right fro...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Pitch 2 of The Valkyrie. Goes right fro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of The Valkyrie.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of The Valkyrie.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the corner on the second half of Pitc...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the corner on the second half of Pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 5
Pitch 5

Comments on The Valkyrie Add Comment
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By BrettPurchase
From: Seattle, Washington
Nov 5, 2016

Great route. Maybe only slightly more difficult than the Stanley Burgner on Prusik and also similar in style of climbing
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Jun 20, 2017

Beta alert, purists need not read on.

On pitch two you can skip the wide section by making a reachy move out left to some funky knobs. I usually like to climb wide, but this seemed like a viable way to go at a moderate grade. Save both #2s for the hand crack.

By going directly up from the top of pitch 3 (pitch 4 if you did an intermediate belay after the wide bit on p2) skipping the slabby flakes traverse, you can link p3 and p4 in another 55+ meter pitch. That variation is significantly more direct, and probably goes at 10+/++. This route goes by very quickly if you do the the first bit in three 190 foot monster pitches. We had weather move in and it allowed us to get off the formation significantly faster than we thought it would be.

Not sure where the 10- knobs were on p4, I went up easy terrain to the left, then traversed right into a left facing corner that led to the last belay ledge.

The crux of this route for me was p1, the slab was essentially a waterfall and the 'roof' was filled with ice and loose junk.

To descend hike uphill, possibly up some steep snow depending on season, and drop into a major gully that leads back to aasguard pass.

Super fun route! Highly recommended.
By Jeromy Markee
From: Wenatchee, WA
Jun 25, 2017
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Bit O' kitty litter and loose flakes/rock in the cracks throughout. Especially in the steep section of P1, climb with care. Huge moving block right where you need to stand on the belay ledge at the top of p4, be careful not to knock it on your belayer. Good route overall. Good alternative to acid baby if there are crowds (weekends)

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