REI Community
search
Advanced
The Valentine Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cupid's Fever S 
My Bloody Valentine (aka the Littler Red Book) S 
Victoria's Secret S 

The Valentine Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,700'
Location: 34.67094, -116.98414 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,535
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Salamanizer suchoski, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Feb 17, 2015
Forecast:
Today

50° | 29°
Saturday

54° | 35°
Sunday

50° | 37°
Monday

49° | 33°
Tuesday

52° | 35°
Wednesday

57° | 37°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Valentine Wall, from the road.

Description 

The Valentine Wall is the tall brown and black wall on the north end of the formation across the road from campsite #3. The Valentine Wall is on the north side of the same formation that contains The White Face, which is on the south side.

Getting There 

When entering Sawtooth Canyon campground drive past the speed bumps and the campground host and turn right after passing the kiosk. Drive past the restroom and pass The White Face, and two campsites, on the right. Continue between the rock formations to a wide parking area and campsite #3, on the left. The Valentine Wall is the tall brown wall on the right (south).

Climbing Season

For the Entrance Area Crags area.

Weather station 15.9 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Valentine Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Valentine Wall:
Victoria's Secret   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cupid's Fever   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
My Bloody Valentine (aka the Littler Red Book)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Valentine Wall

Featured Route For The Valentine Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: On "Cupid's Fever."

Cupid's Fever 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  California : High Desert : ... : The Valentine Wall
Begin climbing below the serrated flake, that begins ten feet above the base, on small handholds and polished slab for the feet. After attaining the flake, move left past the 1st bolt and continue up the face on positive edges. As the angle steepens work up to a deep hueco and then right to a crack. Climb the featured face, left of the crack, with large flakes and knobs to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of The Valentine Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Valentine Wall, from campsite #3.
The Valentine Wall, from campsite #3.

Comments on The Valentine Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 25, 2015
Nice to have a few new routes at New Jack. These routes are still shedding some holds for now, but should clean up nicely in time. My Bloody Valentine was our group's favorite, though we thought 5.9 was a more accurate rating.
By Countzen
From: Santa Monica, CA
Oct 18, 2015
There is a unfinished route in the middle, between Victoria's Secret and Cupid's Fever. I think it goes at 5.10a or so. There's 3 bolts for the route, and bolt 1 is missing.

It can be a good mxied route, I climbed it yesterday. Some trad gear to follow up the crack that appears pretty quick. Few good hand jams and few toe jams and you are pretty much done.

It's probably safer to TR this for most folks.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About
Terms · Privacy © 2017 Adventure Projects, Inc.