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The Valentine Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cupid's Fever S 
My Bloody Valentine (aka the Littler Red Book) S 
Victoria's Secret S 

The Valentine Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,700'
Location: 34.67094, -116.98414 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,099
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Feb 17, 2015


74° | 55°

77° | 55°

78° | 58°

74° | 56°

75° | 55°
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The Valentine Wall, from the road.


The Valentine Wall is the tall brown and black wall on the north end of the formation across the road from campsite #3. The Valentine Wall is on the north side of the same formation that contains The White Face, which is on the south side.

Getting There 

When entering Sawtooth Canyon campground drive past the speed bumps and the campground host and turn right after passing the kiosk. Drive past the restroom and pass The White Face, and two campsites, on the right. Continue between the rock formations to a wide parking area and campsite #3, on the left. The Valentine Wall is the tall brown wall on the right (south).

Climbing Season

For the Entrance Area Crags area.

Weather station 15.9 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Valentine Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Valentine Wall:
Victoria's Secret   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cupid's Fever   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
My Bloody Valentine (aka the Littler Red Book)   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Valentine Wall

Featured Route For The Valentine Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Over the bulge and into the littler red book.

My Bloody Valentine (aka the Littler Red Book) 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : High Desert : ... : The Valentine Wall
Stem the polished slab and overhang. Utilize the crack/slot to pull the bulge and climb the right facing reddish corner, on flakes and features, to its end. Near the top pull flakes and features to reach the two bolt anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Valentine Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Valentine Wall, from campsite #3.
The Valentine Wall, from campsite #3.

Comments on The Valentine Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 25, 2015
Nice to have a few new routes at New Jack. These routes are still shedding some holds for now, but should clean up nicely in time. My Bloody Valentine was our group's favorite, though we thought 5.9 was a more accurate rating.
By Countzen
From: Santa Monica, CA
Oct 18, 2015
There is a unfinished route in the middle, between Victoria's Secret and Cupid's Fever. I think it goes at 5.10a or so. There's 3 bolts for the route, and bolt 1 is missing.

It can be a good mxied route, I climbed it yesterday. Some trad gear to follow up the crack that appears pretty quick. Few good hand jams and few toe jams and you are pretty much done.

It's probably safer to TR this for most folks.

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