REI Community
search
Lost Angel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 Crack T 
AAArete S 
Archangel S 
Autumn S 
Awakenings S 
Be Here Now T,S 
Boy's World T 
Caterer, The S 
China Doll T 
China Doll (P1-2, free) T,S 
Crazy Wisdom T,S 
Digital Dilemma (a.k.a. Johnny and Stella's route) S 
Disneyland S 
Divination S 
Divination Direct S 
Drop Zone S 
Dynamometer S 
Dyno Arête S 
Earth Voyage S 
Freedom S 
Fright Grooves T 
Host, The S 
Hunky Monkey S 
Interzone T 
Jungle Blues From Jupiter T 
Killing in the Name T 
Knowoneness T 
Life on Mars S 
Long Dong Dihedral T 
Long Dong with Zentropa Finish T,S 
Lost in Tradslation T 
Naked Lunch S 
Night Grooves S 
Outta This World T 
Podophobia S 
Primal Cinema S 
Rage Against The Machine T,S 
Raise the Titanic S 
Rock Odyssey S 
Rush S 
Shape Shifters T 
Shunyata T 
Signs of Life S 
Spiders From Mars T 
Standard Route S 
Strange Cargo S 
Take the Power Back T 
Technical Remote Viewing S 
Time Traveler T,TR 
Vaino Step, The S 
Variation to Hunky Monkey S 
Weenie Roast T 
Wide Crack T 
Zentropa T,S 

The Vaino Step 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Moe Hershoff, Claire Mearns, 2003
Page Views: 810
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Vaino Step and nearby routes. Photo by Vaino ...

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the arete just left of the right-facing corner (Jungle Blues From Jupiter). Stick clip the first bolt and make a series of difficult moves to join The Host.

Description from vainokodas.com/climbing/corout... used with permission.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Comments on The Vaino Step Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Oct 14, 2012

What the heck? I've always wanted to try the first move on this, so I finally put a stick clip on the first bolt today, and there doesn't seem to be a move at all. If anybody has beta, let me know. This seems like it must be much harder than 12a unless I'm missing something obvious.
By Mark Rolofson
Jun 11, 2017

I have tried this hideous start to The Host a couple times in past years. I have struggled to figure it out. It is quite hard. Probably ought to be called 5.12 not just 5.12a.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About