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Usual Suspects, The T 

The Usual Suspects 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chris Miller, Chuck Scott, Loren Scott & Tyler Logan, March 2000
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 42
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The Usual Suspects (5.10d), Joshua Tree NP.


Step across a pit to a thin crack, then ascend to the base of the arete. This could be quite difficult if you are short.

Alternately, pull third class moves right of the arete and traverse to the base. Pulling the rope through the draws before the second ties in might be a good idea if you choose this start.

At the arete lay off a shallow crack to begin the route. Thin balancy moves lead past three bolts to jugs over the lip. Short, but the technical moves will keep your interest all the way to the top.


3 bolts to a two bolt anchor (all 3/8"). If you do the direct thin crack start, a few pieces in the .5"-1" range.

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By C Miller
From: CA
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The first ascent climbed obvious cracks straight up to the rounded buttress/arete. I recall a heel hook around the arete being useful to clip a bolt.
By Randy
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Pretty sustained and very engaging climbing.
By Murf
Apr 3, 2006

Edited for rating change ( .10 c/d -> .11a ), Parroted guidebook rating initially.
By Charles I.
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2009

Quite featured and exposed climbing on the arete but a little grainy. Needs more traffic.

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