|Original:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b X [details]|
|FA:||Pat Ament, Rodger Raubach, & Janice Baker, 1965, FFA: Duncan Ferguson and John Searls, 1974|
|Submitted By:||Joshua Merriam on Jun 18, 2007|
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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2007
RE: [Tony Bubb]
> How much risk of groundfall was there from the crux?
> How hard did you think the climbing at the groundfall area was?
I felt the crux of the route was the low to mid section between the initial roof, and the second overlap. There are several pro options within that area, which I believed might hold a fall.
After the crux, but before fully establishing above the overlap, I could find no gear, however the moves are <5.9.
By Rodger Raubach
Jan 2, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
|Just as an historical note: this climb was originally done as an A3 route in 1965 by Pat Ament, myself, and Janice Baker. The first FREE ascent was probably done by Duncan Ferguson as the original poster suggests. The aid on this route was very tricky, and I doubt that any single piece placed would have held any kind of fall. It was very serious as an aid route, and I would venture even more so as a free climb. That said, this route probably doesn't warrant the risks involved....|