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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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White Rabbit T 

The Unsaid 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: George Meyers, Roger Grette, 1970
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 8,691
Submitted By: Andrew Wellman on Jan 1, 2001

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Garrett cruising through thin finger on "The ...

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This one pitch climb is about 50 feet below the Long John Wall route. It follows a thin crack in a dihedral past two small roofs and out onto a face. Rossiter describes it as classic, but that depends on your definition. As opposed to most Eldo routes, which tend to be sustained, this pitch is a one move wonder as far as difficulty is concerned. Still, if you are in the area it is well worth doing and is quite fun.

Addendum: The right finish has a fixed hex at the top.


Standard trad rack. Pretty thin, no need for any pieces above 1.5 inches. You only really need a set of nuts and about 4 cams from .5 to 2.


Eds. The anchor may be a rope stretcher to rappel with a short downclimb with a 50m rope to the ledge 30 ft up. Consider 2 ropes or a 60m rope. Also, if you belay from the ground, do not lower with a single rope!

Photos of The Unsaid Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eds.  Note, this rappel may be a rope stretcher wi...
BETA PHOTO: Eds. Note, this rappel may be a rope stretcher wi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Cameron above the crux.
Greg Cameron above the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rosa TR'ing at age 4.
Rosa TR'ing at age 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the reach back into the crack.  Pho...
Setting up for the reach back into the crack. Pho...
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux on The Unsaid.
Above the crux on The Unsaid.
Rock Climbing Photo: Christa Cline at the layback near the top of the p...
Christa Cline at the layback near the top of the p...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fran contemplates moving out onto the face.
Fran contemplates moving out onto the face.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Unsaid viewed from the start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: The Unsaid viewed from the start of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike is transitioning from the thin crack out on t...
Mike is transitioning from the thin crack out on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: The reach back into the crack.  Photo by Steve Bon...
The reach back into the crack. Photo by Steve Bon...

Comments on The Unsaid Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 14, 2017
By Brice W
Jul 31, 2001

This is a fun route, but I agree about it being a one or two move wonder. It doesn't feel like a 5.9 if you are tall, either (I'm 6'4"). On the thin crack before traversing out on the face, I was only able to get in some quite small nuts, #3s and #4s BD.
By Aaron Shupp
Apr 8, 2002

This route is certainly not very difficult for the grade; however, the gear is fairly thin in places. The whole pitch really only needs about 3 or 4 nuts or tiny cams. Also, most of the climb really depends on the face-holds to the right of the crack. Go up a few moves, then step left.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 21, 2002

Well, I think this is a 3-move wonder, that I did for the third time today. Pulling out of the corner, making a neat move up the face, and then pulling back into the crack above the roof all feel equally difficult and thought-provoking. Of course, you could also just go straight up the corner without using the face, which is strenuous but quite doable.

A 60 meter rope is perfect for the rappel to the tree directly below the route, with a 50 you'll probably have to downclimb a bit.
By rob.calm
From: Loveland, Colorado
May 22, 2002

I found the crux piece of protection to be a .75 Camalot placed low in the roof while leaning to the right off the huecos on the left wall. This protects moving up on the wall and re-entering the crack. How hard is the route if one stays in the crack all the way and avoids the left wall?
By Andy Moore
May 22, 2002

Going straight up the dihedral, instead of moving left, is mid-5.10 or so. There are a couple of delicate stem moves, with not much for your feet, until you can reach up to where the crack opens up enough to admit fingers again. From there, you can reach up to the roof. The move over the roof from this position is fun.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 9, 2002

This is one of my favorite climbs on the West Ridge. A better finish continues straight up a right-facing corner at the top instead of heading left to the two-bolt toprope anchor. Fun thin face and stemming moves take you to the rotten ledge. You can belay from the top using a small tree as an anchor. After you bring your second up, traverse left to the big tree and rappel down Washington Irving. 60m rope recommended for the rappel.
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 1, 2002

I led it today and thought it was way cool. [Balancy] move up on the top of the face using left hand fingertip undercling was unique. Protecting that move is not too bad for taller climbers (6' range) but my shorter partner (5'6") can't reach the corner of the roof to place the cam. I'd agree it's a classic a say it's a three move wonder.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jan 22, 2003

A three and a half move wonder for my wiry self. A bit balancy when you're on the face, other than that pretty straight forward. Stoppers and a few small cams protects The Unsaid.
By shad O'Neel
Jun 20, 2003

Some of these big holds are just out of reach for shorter folks like me. I found it to be reachy and three or so hard moves. Brilliant climbing reminicient of Castle Hill in New Zealand. 5.9 felt right on to me.
By Brian Weinstein
Sep 29, 2003

A quality pitch of thought-provoking little moves. From mantling on the face to little fingers...a very enjoyable lead and agreed with the rating of 5.9. Have fun!
By Holly Barnard
Jul 25, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

This was my first Eldo 5.9 lead and I didn't think it was as hard as others I have followed or lead since then in the canyon. I'm 5'6" and this climb was definitely more than a one move wonder. I'd agree with 3 or 4 moves that by the end of them you could be looking at an unpleasant ride if you fell before getting back into the crack. In hindsight, I'd advise folks to be pretty comfortable at 8+ before leading this. Falling from the face mid-crux would not be good. Place gear as high as you can in the dihedral before moving out onto the face.
By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Aug 23, 2004
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I second what Holly mentioned about fall potential on some thin wires prior to placing your .75 cam in the roof - could be painful. I preclipped my cam and fired it in ASAP from the potholes. Also, threading the hole at the bottom of the RF corner with a sling eliminates the possibility of zippering your stoppers in the case of a fall prior to getting the cam in the roof. Two stars and a good lead for breaking into 9's.
By Jeremy
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 30, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was a great route! I led it pulling out on the face and it seemed that the holds pulling the roof would be better if you stay in the crack. I tr'ed it and that was definitely the case. Staying in the crack and using the huecos for hands and a left foot was fun and maybe 10a.
By Jason Shatek
Dec 20, 2004

This is a good all around route. For the crux, I first put in a orange RP (last piece before the roof). Then I was able to step high and side pull the hueco and then put a orange Alien into the roof. I then swung out onto the face and did the mantle move to the 5.9 part of the crux. I then placed a blue alien in the dihedral a couple of feet above the orange Alien. The next 9 move wasn't too bad, I just steped up and side pulled a flake and that was high enough to grab a bomber corner handhold. FYI.... Someone mentions above that you can sling a corner before the crux to keep you from zippering should you fall. I looked for a spot to sling and couldn't find anything.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 6, 2005

This is a fun pitch, although short. It took me some time to figure out the crux moves, even though I'm sure I've done it before.

I puzzled over the "Ron Olsen Variation" at the top, a standard Eldo corner with no significant handholds. This dihedral can be made easy by stepping left and then back right into it!
By jay baichi
Jul 5, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Loads of fun! Sucked up the small Aliens!
By D. Shaw
Aug 7, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Tricky, and I agree with Rossiter, classic "Eldo" climbing. There is more than one fun move, so certainly don't skip this pitch. Gear in thin seam is small, before stepping left into pockets. Then stand up in pockets, if you are tall reach right and you can get an excellent nut at bottom of the crack. If you can't reach back to the bottom of the crack to place the gear it is actually going to be a fairly run-out move.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 9, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route. Staying right in the dihedral and not moving left to the jugs on the face makes it an interesting challenge, solid .10 I would say. Pulling the roof from this position is fun
By Andrew McLean
From: Colorado
Nov 6, 2009

Cool route. Good intro 5.9 Eldo. lead because the hard moves are few and gear great. There are good small nuts in the crack before you go left onto the face. One of which I fell onto trying to pull into the crack above the corner. I did not think the fall was unpleasant aside from the 10 minutes it took the clean the stuck piece :)
By Armin Colorado
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 1, 2010

I lost my "grey ghost" (grey metolius TCU) on this climb near the top right below the anchor. 6 pack offer to get it back. Thanks.
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 2, 2010

Hey Armin, when did you lose it and where was it? If it matches the one I found, you've got your cam back.
By GMBurns
Apr 21, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Not really sure there's any need to go back into the corner once one hits the face on the left. The slab moves on the face are fun and at the grade. The move back to the crack above the roof is also pretty fun at that point, too.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Sep 3, 2010

Levin's new guidebook gives a rating of 5.10b for staying in the dihedral instead of veering left onto face. That felt about right, protecting with black Alien and tiny wires. Short crux with sketchy feet. Fun.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2011

Fun route that has probably one of those "height dependent" cruxes. Otherwise you are going to probably have to make a couple of pretty thin moves and run it out a bit above some pretty small pro (small RPs) which is a bit disconcerting, because when out on the face you lose sight of your placements and are well aware of the swing fall and the extra rope you have out. Once you can manage to get in a piece (0.75 cam) into the roof the rest of the route goes safe and is quite reasonable. Keep a cool head, place solid nuts, (small cams kept pulling out for me when tested in the thin crack due to its flairing nature) and all will go well!
By ssp
Nov 30, 2011

Has been a favorite of mine from way back. Done numerous times with 'guests' from out of town to get them into Eldo lead climbing. After the first few times, I started doing the 'directtisima' straight up the crack to the roof and continue straight on to the ledge. This line is a hard 5.10 and really gets you going with the footwork.
A good route.
By Andy Nelson
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
May 14, 2017

Fun pitch, several moves warrant the 5.9 and overall a great climb. Gear isn't too bad if you take the time to place it. 0.75 is the ticket during the crux move and shouldn't be height-dependent to place. Oh and a fantastic block sticks out for foothold straight outta the gym near the start of the route!

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