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The Unmentionable 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: dry
Page Views: 2,363
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Nov 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Unmentionable.

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  • Description 

    The climbing route faces the trail, and, starts after a short scramble to a small rock saddle (old star-dryvin' belay bolt at saddle).

    Scramble up easy ridge to steeper rock at a broken horizontal seam. Clip bolt above the break, send that rig to the summit.

    Great position, a free standing pinnacle and some might find inspiration for something after staring longingly at the formation (a cold shower?).

    Classic Pinnacles summit. Well worth the scenic hike.

    Historical note: the 1966 Roper guide rated this route 5.3.


    From the High Peaks Trail starting on the East Side, goes past the Anvil about 200 meters and look to the left: it looks like, uhh: Unmentionable!

    Rappel from the summit.


    One bolt protects the short crux and route. Two bolt anchor on summit for the rappel back to the ground.

    Photos of The Unmentionable Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: On top ...
    On top ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mathew G takes off!
    Mathew G takes off!
    Rock Climbing Photo: El Greco on top of the Unmentionable!
    El Greco on top of the Unmentionable!
    Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of a climber on top.
    Photo of a climber on top.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of the Unmentionable.
    Summit of the Unmentionable.
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the only bolt, just below the crux of the Unmen...
    BETA PHOTO: At the only bolt, just below the crux of the Unmen...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Geez, that's so...Unmentionable!
    Geez, that's so...Unmentionable!
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Unmentionable from near the trail.  Note climb...
    BETA PHOTO: The Unmentionable from near the trail. Note climb...

    Comments on The Unmentionable Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By ElGreco
    Mar 14, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

    Truly unmentionable... Known by the rangers as C*ck Rock. Follow the gently sloping ridge (easy but exposed, especially to the right - no fall zone) to where the rock steepens. Clip a bolt, pull a few short crux moves (5.7) and you're on top. Bolt anchor. A short route, but the exposure, view and photo opportunities on this pinnacle make this a classic!
    By Jason Ogasian
    From: South Lake Tahoe
    Jul 16, 2013

    This is a great place to practice a "Pinnacles Rappel". There is a good groove at the top that will keep your rope from slipping while you and your partner rap off the sides.

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