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The Unforgiven 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Williams and Friends
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: C. Williams on Apr 15, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The Unforgiven

Description 

Starts on a clean face on the right side of the tundra knoll. A scramble right will bring you to a grey belay bolt. Fun face moves past the first three bolts before easier ground. The fourth bolt hides up and left of the small tree. Clip this and traverse right to good rock. the anchor for the first pitch is in an alcove behind the tree at the top of the pitch. A 35m First pitch!

For the second pitch run it out to the bolt high up on the bulge. A short but fun boulder problem guards the bulge before easy climbing past one more bolt and the anchor. A cool all gear variation to this pitch follows broken cracks up and right from the belay, gear to 2".

Location 

250' above the parking for Sunshine Ridge. The best approach is a scramble up Thrombosis gully to the tundra, continuing up and left to the nice tundra knoll with a large half dead spruce tree. Walk off as for Sunshine Ridge or rap.

Protection 

P1: 8 bolts
P2: 2 bolts opt. gear to 2"
bolted anchors


Photos of The Unforgiven Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the belay
Looking up from the belay

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By Kevin Downie
Apr 24, 2015
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Thanks to those who took the time to bolt this route. It's nice to have something new along the Arm. I felt like the route is rated a little high; we felt most of it was a 5.6 scramble with 2 perhaps 5.8 moves at the start of each pitch. This climb has a lot less lichen than its neighbor climb "Last Call".
By JakeGano
Sep 20, 2015

The next person to climb this route should bring a small wrench and some locktite. The hangars on the last two bolts before the first pitch anchor are loose. Also, we didn't see bolts on the second pitch but we found enough cam placements to protect it well enough. The first pitch anchor could use some rap links. I didn't think the second pitch was worth doing again and I'd rap off after the first pitch if I were to do the route again.
By C. Williams
From: the Climber Cave
Jan 28, 2016

The route with spinners and no links on the anchor is one of two unknown single pitch routes between The Unforgiven and Last Call. The second pitch of The Unforgiven is defined by a short obvious headwall 20ft above the first pitch anchor. Two bolts protect the left variation, clearly obvious from the anchor.

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