REI Community
Moose's Tooth
Select Route:
Ham & Eggs 
Shaken not Stirred 
Tooth Obsession, The T 
Unforgiven, The 

The Unforgiven 

WI5+ M5+ R

Type:  Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Original: WI5+ M5+ Steep Snow R [details]
FA: Ivan Ramirze / Gilly James
Season: Winter / Spring
Page Views: 2,815
Submitted By: Airbiscuit on May 27, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
"The Unforgiven"

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


A shorter R rated version of "Shaken" Below the western summit of the Bears Tooth is a left leaning gash that splits the two hangars at the far end of the Root Canal.

Climb a short rotten runout step onto the snow slope above. Run the rope up past the bottle neck till it gets steep; belay out of the way, and then fire up into a steep rotten curtain. The final two pitches climb excellent grade 4 ice to an exposed arete on the subsummit of the Bears Tooth. This route has not been continued on to the summit yet.

Downclimb from the arete to the beggining of the chimney then Decend from great fixed anchors on double ropes.


South end of the Route Canal Glaicer


5-6 ice screws, several stubbies, light rack including thin cams, nuts, hexes, and a few pitons.

Comments on The Unforgiven Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About