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Body Suit T 
Closed Heimer TR 
Conflict In Terms T,TR 
Crazy Alice T 
Critical Mass T,TR 
Delete this route, Duplicate! T 
Dihedral, The T,TR 
Dr. Coolhead T,TR 
Extended Altar Call T 
Fantasy Roof T,TR 
Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route" T 
Flying Nun Variation T 
Flying Nun, The T 
Knuckle Sandwich T 
Larin Has Balls T 
Leap Frog T,TR 
Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 
Masters of Reality T 
McBride's Mind T 
No Stone Unturned T,TR 
Resurrection Factor T 
Scrotum Roof T,TR 
Shake and Bake T 
Side Saddle T,TR 
Slap Roof T 
Sloth T 
Squeeze Play T,TR 
Straight Face TR 
Sundown Dihedral T,TR 
Sweet Jesus T,TR 
Time the Avenger TR 
Too Much Fun T 
Triple Decker T 
Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 
Yellow Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Unfinished Piece 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,033
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Aiden pulls onto the upper ramp slab that leads to...

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climbing the slab and up past the large cedar tree to the right of Critical Mass. Cedar tree makes a good anchor for those into short pitches. Then the original route in 'Southern Exposure' traverses left to join Critical Mass and the two right finishing legs of 'Flying Grasshopper, AKA Richard Pryor". As a single pitch, and seen in newer guides, taking the direct line above the Cedar keeps rope drag down but at the cost of hard exposed moves.

Location 

Start just right of the Critical Mass Slab. Crazy Alice Rap Station.

Protection 

All Gear.


Photos of The Unfinished Piece Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aiden is following his dad up the slabby 1st pitch...
Aiden is following his dad up the slabby 1st pitch...

Comments on The Unfinished Piece Add Comment
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By CalebSimpson
Jan 3, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The rating on this route is BS, there is an airy, exposed move over a roof with only slick downward sloping slab for feet. It's awful at first, but once you pull the move it isn't to bad. But it's a huge head trip and no 5.6 climber could make those moves. I rated it 5.7+ because I think it could be closer to an 5.8.

Oh, and broke this up into two pitches. Set up a belay under the roof, thought I was running low on gear, but turns out I could have easily finished and still set an anchor up top
By CalebSimpson
Mar 19, 2009
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Looking at an old guide book the topo here does not show the correct route. You should traverse far left, not pull the roof like the topo shows. Old guide book also says 5.7, so by my guess if you pull the roof it may even go at 5.8. But who am I to say?
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Apr 28, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The slabby corner 10' to the left is really hard to protect, so I elected to go up the diagonal hand crack slightly left (as Caleb discusses). I think that a way to protect the climb further left would be to stick a medium to large piece in the hand crack before traversing.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Mar 4, 2010

The roof section of this route is more about your head than anything else. IMO, bypassing this obstacle to the left would sink the rating to 5.5. If your weak on slab then the roof will feel more intense than it actually is. I bet that another pass will make it seem way easier than it was during the first round.
By bad dude
From: Oklahoma City,OK
Apr 25, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

took the direct path at the crux, and was hesitant. I did get the onsite, but this is not a 5.6 in my opinion, even compared to other 5.6s in the refuge.
By Brent Butcher
Apr 27, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I don't know why this route isn't in Tony's guidebook but I really enjoyed the route. Fun exposed moves near the top make it a great Wichita's climb.
By Drew Nevius
From: Oklahoma
Jul 26, 2016
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Fun route! I led it all in one pitch, but it could be broken into two. The first pitch is 60ft up to the large roof in the left facing corner with the dead tree and would be a great beginner lead at 5.5-5.6. The 30ft second pitch climbs through the slabby dihedral above the left end of the roof felt about 5.8. I'm not sure where a well protected 5.6 option for the second pitch would go...
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jul 26, 2016

Also... do know the topo pic I posted for Zoo Wall's main page. The line showing Unfinished Piece is a direct copy of what is shown in "The Oklahoma Climber's Guide" by Lohn.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Dec 19, 2016

Do note: For the genuine 5.6 route, past the cedar tree, traverse sharply left and avoid the exposed moves above. The direct line above goes at least 5.7 or better. Confusion is understandable. Likely the reason it's being suggested for an upgrade.
By Michael A Parker
From: Tulsa, OK
Feb 6, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

First pitch was pretty casual up to the cedar tree with a fun slabby ramp near the top. I'm not sure about the 2nd pitch. I moved left and tried to pull over the bulge into the dihedral but your feet disappear and the crack is too small for even my tips to get into. I ended up using the nice incut rail on the left side of the bulging boulder instead of moving up the dihedral. I have no idea how to keep the grade near 5.6 for the 2nd pitch, getting onto the bulging slab was no joke.

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