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The Undone Book 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 580', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: G. Lowe, E. Anderson, 1967
Page Views: 4,998
Submitted By: Mark Michaels on Sep 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: N. Summit Wall Beta


Stellar line. Thin face climbing crux that in 1995 had a 1/4 inch bolt for protection. Has it been replaced? Old school alpine 9+ R. Great rock. I would compare the crux of this route in style, difficulty, and boldness to the Viewing, 10a, on the Coffin. But the position, exposure, and alpine factor make this feel a bit harder than 10a. Quite stimulating.


Cams from micro to 4 Camalot, tricams and hexes.

Photos of The Undone Book Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the scaaawey sloper patina of 'Undone Book'
On the scaaawey sloper patina of 'Undone Book'

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By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Mar 17, 2005

Awesome climb! I was scared shitless leading that 2nd pitch. A few years ago I followed it and still though it was quite difficult. The pro is sparse and small and I doubt the bolts been replaced.Do the Triple Overhangs & Vertical Smile first they are alot easier!
By Brian in SLC
From: Sandy, Utah
Jun 27, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Great route. Bold lead. 1/4 bolt still there as of summer of 2003.
Might be a full grade harder than the Viewing on the Coffin.
By Louis Arevalo
Jul 16, 2006

Climbed this route yesterday. Although the second pitch has a quarter inch bolt I found solid gear leading up to and just past it, not terribly run out. For what it's worth, the crux bolt was one of the healthiest looking 1/4 inchers I have ever clipped. I would say the second pitch is a slow-moving route-finding 10-.
We found the route to be dusty and void of any chalk. If it were to be climbed more often and the chalk were to build up, I am sure it would ease the psych.
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Sep 25, 2006

This is a megaclassic line. I know the crux was scary for me in '95, with a 1/4" bolt for "protection" and huge exposure, but really don't think it could be 5.11, given my skills at the time. Once was enough for me, but probably my proudest send ever.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 4, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

My brother lead this so I'm commenting not as a leader, but if you do this at night with headlamps while being eaten alive by mosquitoes it is for sure 5.10+...tricky gear placements and some difficult moves on the crux pitch, then each pitch following is easier and easier. Also stay on route while descending from the summit, again not fun with in the dark.
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

great line, one of the best I have been on in Lone Peak. We did it with a 70m in three pitches.

this route is gonna stay with me, gotta do it again!
By Alec LaLonde
Sep 6, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Excellent line -- right up there with the other two classics on the Summit Wall. It's not as sustained, but the crux is much harder (and scarier) than anything on Triple Overhangs or Vertical Smile.

The first pitch has a tricky 5.9 move and the third is not a gimme. But, of course, you're thinking about the second. It's solid, sustained 5.10 with mostly adequate gear. I only felt real runout on the section past the quarter incher, which, unsurprisingly, doesn't inspire confidence. Take your time on this pitch, and look closely for gear -- it's there, but inobvious. I placed everything from a green C3 to a #3 camalot.

If you're solid at the grade, climb this route, and savor the movement; it's sweet.
By Brent Barghahn
From: SLC, UT
Jun 25, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

The vintage lead bolt on P2 has been replaced with a 3/8 SS one. The bolt for the belay atop that pitch was left as a history piece, as there is ample finger sized gear next to it for an anchor.

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