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Eastern Sky Bridge Ridge
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The Underling 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Larry Day, 1974
Season: any
Page Views: 7,338
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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The traverse.


Begin in the left of the two cracks. Climb up to the roof and traverse the underclinging crack. This is easier if you are taller. Grab the lip of the hole and flip your feet up over your head, or struggle to chimney up in the hole right-side-up. Belay from bolted anchors out near the edge of the ledge and rappel, or continue up a second pitch to the left.


Once you reach the main wall at Sky Bridge Ridge walk right until you spot this recessed dihedral under a roof with a hole up in to a rockhouse above. You really can't miss it.


TCUs to fist sized gear. Make sure you take some shoulder slings to minimize rope drag.

Photos of The Underling Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Yay
Rock Climbing Photo: mid traverse
mid traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: hale starts the traverse
hale starts the traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun move on The Underling
Fun move on The Underling
Rock Climbing Photo: Through the exit wound.
Through the exit wound.
Rock Climbing Photo: hale in the hole
hale in the hole
Rock Climbing Photo: C. Chaney battling the Underling
BETA PHOTO: C. Chaney battling the Underling

Comments on The Underling Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I've tried and tried to do this route right-side up, just to do it, but you know, it's just so much harder that way and no reason to force it. Who doesn't love the odd moves on this route? Really short, but soooo cool.
By Ryan Strong
From: Golden, CO
Oct 30, 2010

awesome route
By CharlesErickson
From: Evergreen, CO
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If your follower isn't a huge fan of crack climbing (or gets nervous on it) place a piece of gear for them at the end of the crack before pulling into the hole. They'll thank you from saving them on the swing.

Great route for the 5.9 trad climber!
By DrRockso
From: Red River Gorge, KY
Oct 3, 2014

This route was equipped with stainless glue-ins. 10/3/2014.
By Patti Degner
Oct 17, 2016

Easier for tall people, I'm 5'2" and could not easily reach the foot holds from the roof crack. The chimney is super cool though, and easier than you would think! If you can do 5.9 trad, do this route.

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