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6.2 Fairy Tales
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aretes des Blocs Integrales TR 
Baba Yaga TR 
Braid of Rapunzel TR 
Emperor's New Clothes TR 
Faces des Blocs Integrales TR 
Frog Prince, The TR 
Glass Mountain TR 
Goldilocks TR 
Goose Laid Golden Egg TR 
Hansel and Gretel TR 
Jack and the Beanstalk TR 
Little Mermaid TR 
Pied Piper TR 
Princess + Pea TR 
Red Riding Hood TR 
Sorcerer's Apprentice TR 
Steadfast Tin Soldier TR 
Three Little Pigs TR 
Thumbelina TR 
Ugly Duckling, The TR 

The Ugly Duckling 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts + JC Curcio
Page Views: 11
Submitted By: kenr on Jun 16, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Fairy Tales Left+Center Z. (Good Book) I Am Time ...

Description 

Interesting moves, and the variation is also worthwhile.

Up the right side of blocks to a wide ledge. Step across to base of a ramp going diagonal Left. Up the ramp, and a bit before its top step Right onto a platform. Up over another platform to the top.

Variation: When reach the wide platform ... (instead of going to base of ramp) step across to the face above, and see two lines of weakness (or wide irregular grooves perhaps with some corners). Roughly straight up the right line of weakness.

warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber - (and if possible, behind a large tree).

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2016. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Location 

At a low wall 8-10 feet high below a wide ledge which is to right from under the wide chimney with a roof.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

For ideas to set up Top-Rope, see the Description of this Fairy Tales sector.


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