REI Community
Treasure Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bobby's Back S 
Buried Treasure S 
Fields of Gold T,S 
Join The Party T 
Tree Line S 
Twilight Kid, The S 
Twilight Time S 
Workingman's Blues T 

The Twilight Kid 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob D., Ron Olsen, & Greg Hand, 9/8/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,299
Submitted By: Orphaned on Sep 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sergei cruxing on the upper corner.

  • Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The Twilight Kid is an excellent new sport climb on Treasure Wall. It has great slab climbing just right of Join the Party.

    Boulder up to a high first bolt. Clip the first bolt then head left following bolts up to a tree. Go right at the tree (hard move) and then up cool moves into a short corner. Make a cool move out the corner and then up to the anchor. Lower back down from the hooks.


    Take the Treasure Wall approach, and hike right up the hill about 50' to the highest ledge, by a big pine tree. Start on the face by this tree.

    Eds. the beta photo has been deleted by its submitter.


    Nine clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor with lowering hooks.

    Photos of The Twilight Kid Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the first bolt.
    At the first bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the upper portion.
    On the upper portion.

    Comments on The Twilight Kid Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 4, 2017
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Sep 9, 2007
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Did the 2nd ascent, 5 minutes after Bob did the 1st. Fun moves on the upper slab. This one should clean up well.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Sep 14, 2007

    Great moves between the small tree and the anchor.
    By djoseph
    Oct 1, 2007

    This is a wonderful climb. If you like balancy, delicate moves, definitely check it out.
    By Dana Prosser
    From: Boulder
    Jun 6, 2013

    This is the easiest 5.10 in the universe.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jun 10, 2013
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    This certainly is not 5.11, maybe 10d but no harder.
    By Than Johnson
    Oct 29, 2014
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Great climb with solid rock, good features, and an interesting crux. Potential for a decent fall if you don't clip before trying the crux. I agree that this probably goes at the mid-10 range rather than 11-, great climb though.
    By Stephen Felker
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 5, 2015

    At what point is the tree mid-route "off"? It is mighty tempting to grab, hug, shimmy, and stem (perhaps contibuting to the down-grading).
    By Ben D.
    From: Colorado
    Aug 27, 2015

    A beautiful and fun climb (if you like slopey, crimpy, slab climbing). My partner and I both found this route significantly easier than Bobby's Back, which goes at .10d. I would say .10b/c tops for this one. But still a great climb well worth doing!
    By Mitchell Hall
    Sep 17, 2016

    This is the route by the right tree. The warm-up routes are by the left tree...learned that the hard way.

    Took three falls figuring out the crux; couldn't get my feet to stay on. Surprisingly clean falls though.

    If I would have known this was originally an 11-, I never would have attempted it. Probably 10b/c being the hardest grades I've sent.
    By Mark Rolofson
    Jun 18, 2017
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    First, if you using the tree left of the crux moves at the 5th bolt, you're cheating. The first time I climbed this route, I led it rope solo & didn't argue with the 5.11a grade. The crux is brief, & I can go with 5.10d but not 5.10c or easier. The crux moves are harder than any move on Sidekick (.10d). If you wish to add another hard section, stay left of the 8th bolt, & climb the dihedral via the thin crack.
    By pfwein
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 4, 2017
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I didn't use the tree, but I climbed up the tree crack a bit and stepped right. Maybe the people who give it harder grades take a different line and stay substantially right of the tree. If so, that's fine, but it would be contrived to climb it that way. A pretty good route whatever the grade.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About