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The Turning Point 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: [Jay Droeger]
Page Views: 12,541
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Sep 24, 2001

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Daniel Woods on "The Turning Point" (V9)...

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

'Turning Point' lies on top of the BBC (Best of Boulder County) boulder in the Satellites. The BBC is the enormous flat-topped boulder that lies on the right side of the trail as you're going up. Turning Point is hard to miss- it's the obvious problem that starts low on the severely overhanging boulder on the top of the BBC.

Start low on the good crimps under the roof, and move your hands out onto the slopers on the face. Use some sneaky foot-beta and hand sequences to get to the arete, bump out left, then fire for the top! This is truly one of the greatest boulder problems in the area, and is not to be missed. The rock is flawless, and the problem is one of the most aesthetic anywhere.

Protection 

At least 1 crashpad is recommended here. Another one or two might be nice to cover up the huge crack below the last part of the problem.


Photos of The Turning Point Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Desperate moves on the Turning Point.
Desperate moves on the Turning Point.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1921.  And you thought it was crowded now?
1921. And you thought it was crowded now?
Rock Climbing Photo: From a different angle... Holga 120N, Fuji 400, cr...
From a different angle... Holga 120N, Fuji 400, cr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Daniel Madsen seeking the point of turning.
Daniel Madsen seeking the point of turning.
Rock Climbing Photo: A busy day at the Turning Point.
A busy day at the Turning Point.
Rock Climbing Photo: Prime conditions on The Turning Point....
Prime conditions on The Turning Point....
Rock Climbing Photo: James A. Reynolds on Turning Point - V8, Satellite...
James A. Reynolds on Turning Point - V8, Satellite...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is me on The Turning Point (V9) in the Sattel...
This is me on The Turning Point (V9) in the Sattel...
Rock Climbing Photo: The best temps in the summer are at night.
The best temps in the summer are at night.
Rock Climbing Photo: Delicious arete.
Delicious arete.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun problem in a great location.
Fun problem in a great location.
Rock Climbing Photo: Yep, another shot of the classic Turning Point. Lo...
Yep, another shot of the classic Turning Point. Lo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian Civgin sending Turning Point on another beauti...
Ian Civgin sending Turning Point on another beauti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fabi lus crushing.
Fabi lus crushing.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Turning Point.
BETA PHOTO: The Turning Point.
Rock Climbing Photo: A few of us up working the start of 'The Turning P...
A few of us up working the start of 'The Turning P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Amazing problem in an even more amazing place!
Amazing problem in an even more amazing place!
Rock Climbing Photo: Luke Childers working "The Turning Point.&quo...
Luke Childers working "The Turning Point.&quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: 12-year-old Tanner on his way to the send.
12-year-old Tanner on his way to the send.
Rock Climbing Photo: Misha on The Turning Point, note the Mickey's 40oz...
Misha on The Turning Point, note the Mickey's 40oz...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sweetness!
Sweetness!
Rock Climbing Photo: Misha Z. finishing it up.... Classic line. Would g...
Misha Z. finishing it up.... Classic line. Would g...

Comments on The Turning Point Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 28, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 22, 2003

In all honestly, this problem is probably V7 nowhere near V9.
By Brian Schoep
Oct 27, 2003

Hey, AC - I think we all realize that bouldering grades are subjective. This is exactly the reason why we need other people's inputs. If several people suggest grades, a compromise can be made in the middle somewhere. I don't thing AC #2 was trying to be a jerk about it, he was just throwing out his impression of the climb.
By Ryan Olson
Jan 31, 2004

I agree, ratings are subjective. However, that said, I have not know anyone who has done this problem and called it V9.
By Ryan Olson
Feb 1, 2004

Why is everyone so hard on this problem. If it were graded V7/8, then no one would give a shit about it. If you have the ability to look past the grade, then this problem is not that bad. Its just that everyone seems to care a whole lot more about whether it is V9 V7 than about if it is a good problem.
By Brandon English
Apr 5, 2007
rating: V8 7B

This is a fantastic problem. Along with Hank's Boulder in the Poudre, this is one of the most aesthetic problems in the Front Range. Perched up on the BBC boulder with a great view of the Flatirons and Boulder. Fun and challenging moves. The crimp-rail is a little tough on the skin, but other than that the rock is great. The grade is irrelevant.
By Hamlet73
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 3, 2007

This is a very aesthetic problem and who cares if it is V7, V8 or V9. It is a cool problem and a beautiful line. Why as climbers we do not concentrate on just this?!?!
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 3, 2007

So that we can focus on problems that we might reasonably climb....
I.e.- a V7 is in my range. V9, not without a lot of work, and I don't do projects....
Hope that doesn't disturb anyone, but I like to know how hard something is before I walk a few miles to try it.
By richard magill
Oct 4, 2007

Just to check my bouldering-to-routes calibration:

V7=5.13-.
V9=5.13+.

Right?
By Helldorado
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2010

My friends and I always called this line The Taxing Point, because you can never have it to yourself. It can be especially greasy in the summer because EVERYONE has to tax on The Taxing Point.
By Jarred S.
From: Wilkes-Barre, PA
May 18, 2010
rating: V7-8 7B

Nice problem. Just keep loose towards the top.
By dallas.milburn
Jul 28, 2010

I know that everyone is saying not to talk about the grade on this, but honestly...it is V7/8.
The only reason it's V9 is because when Jay got the first ascent he bypassed many of the slopers on the right side of the boulder, making some desperate moves to the "turning point". Hence the name. Since then, people have brushed the shit out of the slopers until they were pretty usable, and with the right foot beta, it makes the line much more doable. Hence the downgrade.
Now will everyone stop complaining about it? It's a rad climb!
By Joe Collins
Nov 23, 2010
rating: V8-9 7B+

This is harder than Hueco's Mushroom Roof, which has been called the standard for V8 for 3 decades. Nowhere near V7.
By John Harkins
From: Colorado
Sep 19, 2011

Just comparing with other problems in The Satellites, it's definitely harder than Captain Hook, and I'd say that's V8. But I understand it's hard for a lot of you kids to get stronger and forget what grades are, lol. It's V8+/9 maybe.
By dlsask
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 30, 2012

I've never been to Boulder and have no opinion of this climb other than it looks like fun in the photos. I'm just impressed that this conversation is almost a decade old!
By Cesar Valencia
Mar 28, 2012
rating: V8 7B

Finally got it! Amazing problem.