The Turkey's Crevasse
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.2 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Mike Colacino, Doug Donato, Bill Duncan |
Page Views: | 1,298 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Bill Duncan on Mar 31, 2015 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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The Scoop
The route climbs through the massive chimney splitting the 2 towers that comprise Turkey Tower, from the south.
P1: Climb the first pitch of the South Face route, 5.6, 50'. Belay at the anchors.
Alternate P1: Climb the very nice jam crack in the dihedral 20' to the right of P1 of the South Face, 5.9-. The first 20 feet are great, then you get into some choss.
P2: Climb up and left into the Turkey's Crevasse. Tip toe carefully through the talus and scree in the chimney. Some of it looks ready to go. There is one move of 5.9 just as you are entering the chimney. 200', belay at the nice crack just below the large chockstone.
You may want to move the belay on top of the chockstone for the next pitch. If you have 70m ropes, you will be able to make it to the top of the chockstone at the end of pitch 2. Maybe one 5.7 move.
P3: Climb up the very nice jam crack with some good stemming to the summit. 5.9+, 60'
Rap the Swiss Gentleman route off the NE side of the tower. Recommend using the 1st set of anchors you see on the 1st rap, as the next set is a hanging station. New webbing on 1st rap station as of March 2015. 2nd one starting to look a little bleached.
P1: Climb the first pitch of the South Face route, 5.6, 50'. Belay at the anchors.
Alternate P1: Climb the very nice jam crack in the dihedral 20' to the right of P1 of the South Face, 5.9-. The first 20 feet are great, then you get into some choss.
P2: Climb up and left into the Turkey's Crevasse. Tip toe carefully through the talus and scree in the chimney. Some of it looks ready to go. There is one move of 5.9 just as you are entering the chimney. 200', belay at the nice crack just below the large chockstone.
You may want to move the belay on top of the chockstone for the next pitch. If you have 70m ropes, you will be able to make it to the top of the chockstone at the end of pitch 2. Maybe one 5.7 move.
P3: Climb up the very nice jam crack with some good stemming to the summit. 5.9+, 60'
Rap the Swiss Gentleman route off the NE side of the tower. Recommend using the 1st set of anchors you see on the 1st rap, as the next set is a hanging station. New webbing on 1st rap station as of March 2015. 2nd one starting to look a little bleached.
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