Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mike Colacino, Doug Donato, Bill Duncan
Page Views: 1,298 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Mar 31, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

The Scoop Suggest change

The route climbs through the massive chimney splitting the 2 towers that comprise Turkey Tower, from the south.
P1: Climb the first pitch of the South Face route, 5.6, 50'. Belay at the anchors.
Alternate P1: Climb the very nice jam crack in the dihedral 20' to the right of P1 of the South Face, 5.9-. The first 20 feet are great, then you get into some choss.
P2: Climb up and left into the Turkey's Crevasse. Tip toe carefully through the talus and scree in the chimney. Some of it looks ready to go. There is one move of 5.9 just as you are entering the chimney. 200', belay at the nice crack just below the large chockstone.
You may want to move the belay on top of the chockstone for the next pitch. If you have 70m ropes, you will be able to make it to the top of the chockstone at the end of pitch 2. Maybe one 5.7 move.
P3: Climb up the very nice jam crack with some good stemming to the summit. 5.9+, 60'

Rap the Swiss Gentleman route off the NE side of the tower. Recommend using the 1st set of anchors you see on the 1st rap, as the next set is a hanging station. New webbing on 1st rap station as of March 2015. 2nd one starting to look a little bleached.

Location Suggest change

Climbs the obvious chasm between the towers from the south -left of the South Face.

Fun fact: cell phones don't work at the base of the tower, but do on the summit!

Protection Suggest change

Standard desert rack, with extra hand sizes. A large piece or two is also handy.

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