|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Tom Wezwick and Karl Kiser|
|Submitted By:||Chris Wenker on Jul 15, 2008|
|Comments on The Trough||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 8, 2008
Chris, after talking with Sharon and Greg today, those bolts you saw are for the line they call Old Sling Straightened. It's really quite good with mostly cruiser terrain with two bolts protecting the final, crux moves at the top.
Chris Wenker wrote:
However, there is a mystery bolt line way up high, between, and well above the tops of, The Trough and Vitaman (see the beta photo); anyone know what that is/was?
By Karl Kiser
Mar 6, 2009
|Tom Wezwick and I put up this route so that Protein Supplement and Sunbaked could be put in. The climb indeed goes up the "trough" but cuts right and goes to a separate anchor slightly uphill from the mentioned climbs. There is loose rock on the route but in no way does the route go anywhere close to the death blocks.|
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yeah, Chris, you wanted to traverse right from your high-point (at least, that's how I went).
Basically you want to be climbing the crack system immediately left of Protein Supplement to stay on this route. Yes, it's bushy, and sometimes the rock is suspect. There is indeed a 2-bolt anchor, with tat attached to rings; it is on the left end of the grassy ledge above the Protein Supplement anchor, and wasn't visible until I was right at it. It would probably be smart to replace the webbing before trusting it. I suspect a single 60m rope will suffice for the rappels; however I scrambled off 3rd class ledges to the right, so I don't know for sure.
Oh yeah- this is the bushiest climb I've done in New Mexico, and I'd bomb it; the only nice thing to say is that it may be worthwhile for someone looking for a 5.6/5.7 at Diablo, as there aren't many of these grades here.