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The Crow's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Calypso S 
Clambake S 
Corvus B. TR 
Crow's Nest, The S 
Dingy, The S 
Ill Gotten Booty S 
J-boat T 
Keel Hauled S 
Keel-Ho S 
Land Ho! S 
Little Mermaid, The S 
Mussels S 
Mutiny S 
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 
S.O.S. S 
Saint Elmo's Fire S 
Scuttlebutt S 
Sea Breeze S 
Seasick S 
Starboard Drift T 
Trad's Nest, The S 
Walk the Plank S 
Woman Overboard S 

The Trad's Nest 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Quinn
Page Views: 982
Submitted By: D.Quinn on Sep 27, 2008  with updates from Eli Buzzell

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BETA PHOTO: the crack of trad's nest

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb crack to anchors.

Location 

Just right of "Woman Overboard".

Protection 

Can be climbed all on gear, (1st ascent was done trad), recently retro-bolted


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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

can i get some more details please?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 19, 2009

I try to keep my mouth shut when it comes to retro-bolting at rumney but i must this route needed bolts like sharks need scuba lessons... i had gear with me so i skipped the bolts in favor of gear... It was super well protected, i have no idea how this could be pg13 while cliping the bolts...

anyway... since there is no description for the route... try this... climb easy moves to the first bolt and a stance... Climb moderate crack moves (really fun!) to one longish move to a good crack hold and on to a good horizontal... move left and make an fun mantel move so you are standing on easy rock... walk up and right to the anchor...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Lee I agree this had great natural protection although I clipped the bolts it does not make sense that this got bolted. It is a really fun route though!
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I wish this style crack went on for at least another 20 ft. Nice movements along the whole way.
By Joseph Lascurain
From: Cincinnati
Jun 1, 2011

Maybe it's just because I'm tall, but if you told me this climb was 5.7, I would believe you. The crack moves are fun though. And while I wouldn't want to fall before the first bolt, I dont think I would call it pg13.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I think Dave enjoyed climbing this route on natural gear, but went back and retroed it thinking that nobody would climb it otherwise. It is only very recent that Rumney has seen a bit of a resurgence of people doing the trad routes beyond the very obvious ones like Black Jack Crack.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed this one gear the other day and I agree it does protect very well. And is a fun short trad lead.
By David Bates
From: Boston, Massachusetts
Jul 14, 2015

Does not deserve the PG13. It is short but very nice. All the work is in the first three bolts.