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Traditionalist, The T 

The Traditionalist 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Zschiesche and Colby Wayment
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,026
Submitted By: eric zschiesche on Sep 15, 2010

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Ken figuring out the moves on TR after my embarras...

Route Beta 

The route ascends the clean sweep of orange quartzite, just to the south (right) of Thunder Road. Locate a small overhang that is @ 15 feet above the ground, and @ 15 feet right of Thunder Road. Climb through the small roof and follow a thin crack to a juggy rail. Traverse right a few feet, and climb a thin crack through a bulge to the two bolt anchors. Good gear protection is realized using small cams and midsized stoppers. Happy trails

Photos of The Traditionalist Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First ascent photo.
First ascent photo.

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By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Dec 9, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Thanks goes to EZ for putting in a tremendous amount of time cleaning the lower section! This is probably the best trad route I've done on the schoolroom. Also, by a small margin, probably the hardest. The technical yet powerful moves keep coming at you and success won't be granted until you're staring at the chains.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Feb 25, 2015

This route can be broken into 3 distinct sections:
1, a powerful set of moves to pull the overhang,
2, a tenuous, albeit fun, middle crack section, and finally,
3, an incredibly strong and cryptic set of moves to pull the final bulge followed by easy but "don't screw up" climbing to the chains.

May be a sandbag at 5.11d, using the moves from Bound for Glory (5.12b) and Pocket Loverboy (5.11c) as a comparison.

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