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The Torch

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The Torch Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Dec 6, 2007
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The approach to the Torch: go up the triangular op...


A spectacular, all-sides-overhanging, pinnacle of compact Bighorn Dolomite off of Highway 14a. Those of the desert ilk may best appreciate this tower, as it is essentially akin to a tower foray except on a different type of stone. Most of the route is a bolt-ladder, with the occasional bomber hook and a few gear placements. Unfortunately, most aspects of the tower are blank, severely limiting potential free routes. However, it's a very cool pinnacle that offers a unique excursion for the Bighorns.

Getting There 

From Burgess Junction, drive west on Highway 14a about 6 miles to a long gradual uphill. Park off the road in the grass on the left at the top of the hill. Use the overview picture to identify the Torch, which rises above the tree-line on the hillside to the left of the highway. Hop the fence, hike down a short hill, cross a marshy section, wade the Tongue River (about knee-deep in mid-summer, avoid in spring/early summer), hike up the steep open hillside with a spring at the top, enter the dense forest and bushwhack uphill and slightly right, you will hopefully end up in an open talus field beneath the Torch.

I know, this sounds convoluted, but it will all be relatively obvious if you get your bearings from the Highway before embarking. The hike takes about 30 minutes or more. Bring wading shoes for the river (and maybe a rod for after the climb, good fishing up here). Also, be wary of moose in the willow marsh, make noise while moving through this.

Climbing Season

For the Eastern Big Horns area.

Weather station 5.0 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Torch
Rock Climbing Photo: Trevor Bowman on the first ascent.

Bowman Route 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2  Wyoming : Eastern Big Horns : ... : The Torch
Primarily a bolt ladder, this route tackles the shortest, uphill side of the pinnacle. Scramble up a couple short steps and make a few moves to clip the first bolt. Start up the ladder, with a couple intermediate bomber hook placements. A short crack is followed near the top, with a couple placements in the crack. Beware, one of the bolts near the beginning of the crack is bad (it'll be obvious as the loose stud sticking most of the way out of the rock). There's a better bolt next to it to use. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

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