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The Toiler 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tai DeVore, Marty Lewis - 9/11
Page Views: 1,574
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Apr 14, 2013

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A candidate for the best route on the Mustache. Three pitches of quality climbing.

P1: Start on Double Dog Dare. At the 11th bolt continue straight up instead of moving left. Good climbing in the seams with a reachy crux near the top. High quality pitch. 12a, 18 bolts.

P2: An immediate crux leads to an excellent pitch of grooves and patina. Again, good rock and good climbing. 11c, 13 bolts.

P3: More cracks/grooves but with a little less patina. A crux sequence from the hole at the end of the pitch takes one to a great belay station/ledge. 11c, 13 bolts.

a) 3 rapps down the route.
b) With an 80m, go to the top of Supergrinder. There is only a few feet of rope left, knots advisable. The second rapp does not quite make the ground but deposits one on easily downclimbed terrain at the start of Supergrinder.


Shares the same start as Double Dog Dare.


Bolts. Mussy anchors at each belay.

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By Unassigned User
Jul 31, 2013

Nice route! Good job Tai.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Aug 26, 2014

Yes, great route! The A Dog dragged me up all 3 pitches, nice job! We both thought P2 was harder than P1. Also the first bolt gets in the way on P2 doing the crux, better if it were on the left side of the seam. No chalk on the upper 2 pitches, not much traffic so it's still cleaning up, watch out below. Hard finish and clip at the end.
By Darrell Hensel
Aug 26, 2014

Nice, the upper pitches of this route deserve to see way more traffic as they are well worth doing. Good sequence starting P2, eh? And the belay at the end of P3 is a great spot to visit.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Aug 26, 2014

Amazing climbing! Yowee...pitch 2 crux off the belay was a little surprise! Nice little lunge with creative foot smears. Some balance business on the pitch 3 crux with a thin clip. Squeaked in a redpoint by the hair on my chin with this route, Pine creek top ten!

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