|Type:||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 230', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a C2- PG13 [details]|
|FA:||Jason keith and Sam Lightner Jr (?)|
|Season:||spring, summer, fall|
|Submitted By:||Sam Lightner, Jr. on May 25, 2008|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Tiff||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
May 25, 2008
Here is the deal with this...
Jason and I saw an anchor about 60 feet up on this tower. We decided to try the route... its a really solid bolt ladder. However, when we go on the second pitch we saw no sign that anyone had ever been there. Lots of loose rock needed to be cleaned away, no fixed anchors (unlike the first pitch), and generally soft and loose up high. We needed a couple of fixed pieces to do it. We both figure there are lots of climbers out there who could have climbed the route without our fixed gear, but it would have been out of character with the way the first pitch was done... so we guessed that the route had been abandoned after the first pitch.
If one of you did this thing years ago, good for you... give me the info and I'll change the F.A> stuff in here. However, we had to speculate that no one had been all the way up it due to the looseness, the lack of any fixed gear, and the lack of a rap station coming back to the top of the first pitch. Never the less, the first pitch was most definately climbed by someone other than us.
By Dave Hoven
May 27, 2016
Sam - Thanks for fixing up the route. Joel Irby, Evan Deis and I climbed this in freezing, snowy conditions over Thanksgiving 2015. We also stopped short of the shoulder on pitch 2, making it 3 pitches plus a top-out.
We managed to aid climb all the way to the shoulder, finding sketchy gear and making an occasional scary slab moves/mantle out of the aiders (tricky C2). We made it to the summit and back in hiking boots.
I'm curious - did you guys place the drilled angle that you used for an anchor at the top of pitch 2? If so, why did you use an angle instead of a bolt? Not criticizing, just curious.
Cheers, and thanks again,