"The Throttle" climbs a water streak up the steep face left of the arete of The Threshold and My Way
. It's harder than the guidebook rating of 5.10 and the protection is very poor. Another route to top-rope from the anchor on My Way
(with a directional piece or two near the top of the pitch).
Start about 30' down and left of the My Way
arete below a black water streak. There is a bowl about 30' up that you're shooting for. Climb up to a ramp left of the water streak. Ascend a yellow pillar (5.10 layback and stem) to a stance at its top. Step onto a spike of rock and work right to a little bowl and a black water streak. This move is very difficult; at least 5.11 with no pro. The spike of rock has a broken top; maybe the move was easier 20 years ago. Continue up the water streak and veer right at the top to the anchor on My Way
. Lower or rappel 95' back down.
On the right side of the Boulder Slips crag, below a black water streak, about 30' left of My Way
. See the beta photo.
Not much. Best to top-rope from the anchor on My Way
. Place a directional anchor or two near the top of the pitch, since the start is well left of the My Way
BETA PHOTO: The Throttle. Scramble up left to a ramp. Climb ...