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The Three Penguins

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The Three Penguins Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 5, 2003

96° | 71°

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88° | 68°

90° | 69°

94° | 69°

97° | 69°
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  • Description 

    The Three Penguins has a well-deserved name, although as one of my partners pointed out from the summit, the shadow looks more like a camel. It is the first formation you notice driving up into Arches after going through the gate.

    Getting There 

    Park just past it at an indefinate turnout on the left side of the road. You can do a chossy pitch directly up to the base of the formation or you can scramble up slopes to the right and then traverse back left on ledges (fast and easy).

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 1.1 miles from here

    4 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]

    Classic Climbing Routes in The Three Penguins

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Three Penguins:
    Right Chimney   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Three Penguins

    Featured Route For The Three Penguins
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Tashkin following the first pitch.  He's just ...

    Right Chimney 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  Utah : Moab Area : ... : The Three Penguins
    This route is pretty darn good, especially if you like off-widths.Approach up talus and across a ledge system from the right of the formation. Head around the base to the left - this is the first crack system in a dihedral you come to. The first pitch of the route basically starts at fingers and works its way to fists - the crux being getting over the obvious bulge. Belay at fixed anchors 2/3 the way up the tower. The last third of the tower is a delightful struggle up a flaring off-width - ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

    Photos of The Three Penguins Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Three Penguins
    Three Penguins
    Rock Climbing Photo: Three Penguins from below
    Three Penguins from below
    Rock Climbing Photo: A cave we passed through on the approach
    A cave we passed through on the approach
    Rock Climbing Photo: Near the base of the route. We geared up here, whe...
    Near the base of the route. We geared up here, whe...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of The Three Penguins
    BETA PHOTO: Another view of The Three Penguins
    Rock Climbing Photo: The three birds;  kind of hard to tell from this a...
    The three birds; kind of hard to tell from this a...

    Comments on The Three Penguins Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 7, 2003
    You can also approach the Penguins from the west: scramble up the drainage west of them and gain the same ledge at the base of the formations, follow this right (east) to the base of the routes. This is slightly longer than the approach from the other side but makes for an interesting "Tour de Penguins".

    Also, both of the scrambling approaches look rather improbable from the road.
    By toddgordon Gordon
    From: Joshua Tree, California
    Apr 25, 2007
    See Petrified Bear's Dick
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 30, 2009
    Well, whatever you do, do one of the walking approaches, because the base rock (Dewey Member Mudstone) is such choss for an approach pitch.
    By Perin Blanchard
    From: Orem, UT
    Nov 30, 2009
    " of the walking approaches..."
    Rock Climbing Photo: Walking with Lee Jensen to The Three Penguins, May...
    Walking with Lee Jensen to The Three Penguins, May 2009.

    Photo by Tristan Higbee.
    By Spencer Weiler
    From: Salt Lake city
    Nov 19, 2012
    Park at turnout on left side of road after the last switchback just past a 15mph sign facing downcanyon, only 1-2 miles from the visitor center. Try to find the most used trail or stay on slickrock till reaching the ledge system that takes you right over. 5-10 min approach.

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