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The Three Marys

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Left Mary, The 
Right Mary, The 

The Three Marys Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: Mike on May 24, 2010
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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Three distinct peaks just east of the West Temple (the right side as viewed from the road.) They offer a variety of single and multi-pitch routes.

Getting There 

The best access I am aware of starts in Springdale and heads west on the road to Tanner Amphitheater. Park just before the gate and walk in. Once to the amphitheater, head right (roughly NW) on a climbers trail up a ridge that passes through the cliff band to the base of the Right Mary.

Climbing Season

For the Zion National Park area.

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Three Marys

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Three Marys:
Immaculate Conception   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 1000'   The Right Mary
Theatre Goddess   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   The Right Mary
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Three Marys

Featured Route For The Three Marys
Rock Climbing Photo: The dihedral from the approach

Gentlemen’s Agreement 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  Utah : Zion National Park : ... : The Left Mary
P0: A short low 5th section gets you onto the ledge below the dihedral. Big cams helpful for a belay on the sloping ledge. P1 5.12d: Clip a star drive and some pins to face climb into the corner. Once established, very thin laybacking passes two more pins and some tricky gear to a hanging anchor. Easy to french free, the tips section is ~30ft. P2 5.12b: Thin stemming and laybacking up the corner. A featured left face and smooth right face forces varied movement. P3 5.11d: A beautiful flare heads...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

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