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The Thing 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Max Jones 1978
Page Views: 1,864
Submitted By: urs on Jul 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Cruxing on the Thing (Photo by Tyson Waldron)

Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>


This is the some what odvious crack just to the right of peter principle. Start up an easy dihedral to a ledge follow the ledge to the base of a small dihedral. From here follow the dihedral until you can traverse left into the odvious crack. From here follow the crack through beautiful handjams and awsome finger locks to the top.


This route is just right of peter principle with the small roof near the top.


This route needs pro to 3inchs with a set of nuts and 1 or 2 number 4s.

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By Dra-go-nee
Aug 26, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Though easier, harder to protect than peter principle..
By Bababata
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought the direct variation was a bit harder than Peter Principle, though not as sustained. Great route.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Direct variation: Harder moves than Peter Principle.

Overall, the climb is probably as sustained as Peter Principle, and more pumpy in nature. Also, we were unable to find the 5.10c version of this climb. Coming in from the right seems harder than the direct variation. Is this an old sand bag, or are we missing some key beta on the sloper traverse?

The direct variation protects pretty well, though there will be a run out (that appears safe) from pulling the bulge to the hand jams above the sloping mantle. A solid as can be 0.5" camalot will be the last piece before the run.

One #4 Camalot was sufficient. Up high, finger-sized cams are nice, and there are some offset cam options. Be prepared to run it a bit at the top, the fall would be clean.
By Crimper E6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Aug 24, 2015

the direct was easier than the weird RHS variant. This routes better than it looks, go do it. UK E35c
By Patrick Cattell
From: reno
Aug 29, 2017

I consider myself a solid .10 climber, and yet I flailed on this route. crux for me was this sketchy sloper traverse that was relatively difficult to protect. I ended up down climbing it :( Next time!

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