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Center Squeeze T 
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The Thin Line  

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Smith and Topher Dabrowski, 5/4/15.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 76
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on May 5, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Center Squeeze to Naughty & Nice

Description 

Start just left of the Darkhorse and crank up a steep face past 3 bolts to a good stance at a thin seam. Climb either through the seam (short 5-10c crux) or right of the seam (heady 5-9 variation) after placing very small gear in the seam (smaller than a zero metolius). Place good gear in the arcing crack above the seam and follow the crack to a good stance below a smooth bulge. Clip the bolt out left on the bulge, power directly over this last bolt in an exciting sequence of good face holds, then follow and place good gear in the thin crack leading up and right to finish at The Darkhorse anchor.

Location 

Just left of Darkhorse

Protection 

Gear to 1", and bolts.


Photos of The Thin Line Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin Line
BETA PHOTO: Thin Line

Comments on The Thin Line Add Comment
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By Topher Dabrowski
Jun 19, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Not sure the bolt is needed as the thin seam will take the following gear to protect the crux moves:

Passive Nut, #2 DMM
Ball Nut #2
Wild Country Zero #3


I recommend the following gear for the route:
Small to medium nuts
Ball Nuts #2 (optional but useful)
1x MasterCam 00 or Zero #3 (instead of Ball Nut)
2x MasterCam 1 or Zero #5
1x MasterCam 2 or Camalot 0.3
1x MasterCam 6 or Camalot 1
By David J. Thompson
From: Hood River
Jun 22, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

No bolt. Good nut or ballnut placement
By bryans
Sep 17, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Today I realized if you step left of the thin crack crux, you can use a couple cool in-cut holds to see and place gear in at least two good constrictions in the crack. On the first ascent I stayed right and had a hard time seeing and placing those nuts. The moves won't be any easier, but at least you can see the crack and place gear to your satisfaction from a good stance. So, no bolt is going there.

PS - This route is easily toproped from the darkhorse's anchor. Lower a few feet and place a thin nut or cam in the cracks out left as a directional, then lower down to the top bolt on the thin line for another directional. Have fun!

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