REI Community
Wall of the Trundling Trolls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Things Considered S 
Asgard T 
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 
Best of Both Worlds T 
Business as Usual T 
Chicken Little S 
Dead Precedents T 
Digital Alarm T 
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 
Eggashegadrae T 
Fear of Lurking S 
Few Species T 
Flexible Flyer T 
Furchrissakes T 
Gully T 
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 
Hall of the Mountain King T 
Hostile Takeover T 
Hung Like a Troll T 
Hyper Sloth T 
If I Had a Hammer T 
Internet Troll T 
Jerk Whisperer, The S 
Loki T 
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 
Player Hater's Club T 
Run Like Hell T 
Sidebottom T 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Slip Service S 
Slot, The T 
Smoke and Mirrors S 
Spew Feces T 
Stalker, The T 
Stranger in a Strange Land S 
Sudden Death T 
Take Apart the Robots T 
Talk of the Nation S 
Tao of Choy, The T 
That's Entertainment T 
Trollkind T 
Tyr T 
Unforgiven T 
Valhalla T 
You're Fired! T 

The Tao of Choy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 1,202
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dave Kahler leading.


This fun route begins in the seam/crack, which turns into a right-facing corner about 15 feet above the slab start. Approximately 10 feet higher is a small roof where the corner jogs right. This is the location where a few moves out of the dihedral to the left and up gain a ledge (the same ledge as Do You Want to Live Forever? Not leaving the corner at the appropriate location leads to filthy rock and loose blocks). The remainder of the climb ascends the prominent left-facing dihedral to the anchors at 100 feet. Although a gigantic column forms the upper left-facing corner, the feature is completely solid and enjoyable. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)


Pro to 3.5", anchors.


This route is the second crack system down and right from Gully (see squeezing the Lemmon.)

Comments on The Tao of Choy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 17, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

When I led this route, I accidentally did not move left out of the corner, but continued straight up. Instead of finding "filthy rock and loose blocks", I found great climbing--a nice hand/fist crack, (apparently not part of any route) through a bulge, which leads directly to a wonderful thin 5.9 lieback (this is the alternate finish to route 12, noted on Geir Hundal's topo).

We felt that the line we climbed was better (although harder) than the line stepping left as described above, which we climbed later in the day.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jul 17, 2009

I've done it that way too and it's sweet,especially the last part right before the anchors..In that little area, I gave up trying to figure out what's a variation of what a long time ago, but there's plenty of anchors up there; eventually you run into one.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 29, 2014

Tao of Choy 5.7 for me was harder than sudden death 10-. Far be it from me to accuse anyone of sandbagging.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About