REI Community
search
Advanced
First Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Haulage, The S 
Leather Nun S 
Magnatude S 
Oh it's you Bob S 
Sanctified S 
Tantrum, The S 
Tarbaby S 
World's Hardest Five Twelve, The S 

The Tantrum 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1992)
Page Views: 551
Submitted By: Fred Gomez on Jul 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Tantrum has the wildest moves of any of the routes that breach the roof of the first buttress. The rock quality is good and the majority of the holds are jugs and slopers. Begin by flowing through fun moves to the second bolt. Just after this section don’t get blindsided by a difficult deadpoint to a sloper. Move with ease to the base of the 10' roof and then rail out the roof on a series of good plates. Use some aggressive footwork to reach a large undercling crack near the lip of the roof. Jam one limb, two limbs, maybe three? When you feel sufficiently wedged, clip the 5th bolt. Finish with a thrilling compression feature followed by a stroll to the anchor. Your enjoyment of this route will likely come down to your ability to securely jam the crack.

Location 

Travels out the longest section of roof climbing at the first buttress. Look for the defining crack feature in the roof.

Protection 

6 bolts + 2 Bolt Anchor


Comments on The Tantrum Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About