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The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)
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The Tanning Block 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Season: avoid in hot weather
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 29, 2016

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  • Description 

    Tanning Block? I believe this refers to sunshine, but I will say that leather fingers would have been of some benefit on this line. The holds are a bit rough. The friction is nice to have tough, as the second clip is from a tenuous yet pumpy lieback move. The holds are small and techy.

    It has reasonable climbing and is hard for such a short route. The climb is 30' in all, with all of the punch of the line in the first 18 feet.

    Location 

    On the upper of the two towers/boulders below the right side of the Solar Dome, this line ascends past 3 bolts on the South Face, past a shallow flake/offset. Climb through this with the crux being a several-move sequence past the 2nd bolt (though clip) and onward up and left (3rd bolt) and then up the lower angle rock above to a bolted anchor.

    Protection 

    Bolts to a bolted anchor at 30' or so.


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