REI Community
East Buttress
Select Route:
Longland's Continuation T 
Red Wall T 
Route 2 T 
Sword, The T 

The Sword 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Nick Russell on May 28, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Not a very good shot, but you can just about make ...


An exposed, blunt rib with good climbing on sound rock, only lacking gear. Start from the ledge at the top of the rightwards-trending quartz ramp, the rib should be to your left.

Climb the corner to the right of the rib for about 20 feet to an overlap, stick some protection in then traverse left under the overlap to gain the rib itself. This move is quite tricky but well protected. From here move easily up the rib, with no gear until a ledge with a large block of quartz ("the quartz babe"). A few metres behind this is a good belay on a large spike.

The Sword is a good start to "Route 2" up to the Great Terrace.


Viewed from the miners' track, there is a distinct rightwards-trending quartz ramp at the bottom of Lliwedd East Buttress. Leave the path when you are about on a level with (slightly below) the bottom of this and scramble across the steep hillside and scree. Gain the top of the ramp and a large ledge with a deep gully to your right. This is the start.


Not much. A purple camalot went in before the traverse left, and a few nuts immediately after. The belay is a slung spike. However, a varied rack is essential if you are continuing to the top (and who wouldn't?)

Comments on The Sword Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About