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The Point
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abolishing Virginity (one route at a time) S 
After the Sunset S 
All Aussie Adventures T,S 
Benny's Magical Koura Circus T 
Boat Ramp Crack T 
Flipping the Grader S 
Hecklers, The T 
High Hopes S 
Human Intervention S 
Le Gopener T 
Mellow Yellow S 
Mexican Americans S 
Out of the Blue T 
Road Tripping  S 
Sidewinder S 
Sunday School S 
Sunset Ledge T 
Supernatural T 
Sweet and the Savage, The T 
Yellow Submarine T 

The Sweet and the Savage 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Stephen King, Matt Thom
Page Views: 15
Submitted By: Cameron Fraser on Apr 29, 2013

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The sweet roof/crack/traverse section

Description 

The unmissable corner/ undercling roof traverse near the start of the point. Combining both pitches into one results in terrible rope drag.

Pitch 1 (18/5.10a)
Start up the corner, then follow the crack up and to the left moving through two undercling traverse sections. After this head straight up for two meters and mantle onto ledge for a trad belay. Well protected.

Pitch 2 (16/5.8)
A short pitch to prevent rope drag. Straight up following the crack to bolted belay.

The guidebook suggests you rap from here, but if you feel like it there is a short bolted line (15/5.7+) heading further up the cliff (the second pitch of All Ausi Adventures).

Location 

Left end of The Point, Between Mellow Yellow and All Ausi Adventures.

Protection 

Trad


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