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Superior Races, The T 

The Superior Races 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Paul Comier and Alex Shultz, May 1998
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jun 22, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Believed to be "The Superior Races"

Description 

Looking up and left from the base of "Part the Sea" two new-looking Aluminum-T-Bar-Hangered 3/8" bolts can be seen about 50-70 ft up. These are on the climb The Superior Races F.A. by P. Comier & A. Shultz 1998. [ The Aluminum T-Bar hanger is sort of a "trade mark" of a Comier route, and these look like he either recently installed, or recently replaced older bolts. ]

START- We took advantage of the somewhat clear ground at the start of "Part the Sea" and started here. The FA may have started a few feet left. There's a vegetated dirt "ledge" a few feet up and left of "Part the Sea" which is probably the actual start.

P1 - One move on "Part", then immediately move left and then up (5.5 R/X) to the first bolt. Past this to a small flake-overlap, over this (Yellow Camalot TCU; crux for shorter climbers) and the 2nd bolt. We belayed on the ledge (gear, med. cams) just above the 2nd bolt. 115ft NEClimbs.com's listing is 5.7, we thought 5.7+ or 5.8- PG-13/R with 5.5 or so R/X.

P2 - (can be combined with P1) Up on solid, but poorly protectable rock, passing another, older Alumnium-Hangered 3/8" bolt. Above this trend up and left to the bolted belay of "Lead Poisoning" [Note, new 3/8" bolts...see "Mouseketeers"] 80-90 ft 5.5 PG/R [ NOTE: We totally missed the normal belay off to the left, and headed for the small oak-tree clump directly above the bolt and rapped from there. At the time the bolts had not yet been replaced, but they are fairly well "hidden" in thr corner. These small (2015) trees are at the exact level, and about 30-35 ft right of, the "LP" belay.]

P3 - per "NEClimbs.com" "Move right 20 ft and climb the blocky finish to the top. 80 ft 5.6" This has been reported as quite dirty and harder than 5.6, see comments.

Descent - Rap with 2 ropes to the "Lead Poisoning" belay (Now 3/8" SS), then another 2-rope rap to the ground.

Protection 

Normal rack, TCU's and/or Aliens for the lower section and the flake-crack on P1.


Photos of The Superior Races Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sheila near the bottom
BETA PHOTO: Sheila near the bottom
Rock Climbing Photo: Close up of the usual "Cormier" Aluminum...
BETA PHOTO: Close up of the usual "Cormier" Aluminum...

Comments on The Superior Races Add Comment
Show which comments
By Madeline
From: Cambridge, MA
Aug 22, 2016

Beta on pitch 3: it is very, very lichen-y and R+. There were 2, maybe 3, solid gear placements.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Aug 23, 2016

Yes, Todd Swain is a VERY bold climber. Ratings tend to be a bit "old school" also.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 23, 2016

Ah yes,,the old,bold climber.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Aug 23, 2016

Ah, yes....but THIS old climber had a "brain fart"...While Todd led the FA of Lead Poisoning it was Paul Comier on FA of Superior Races. Just as bold a leader!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 23, 2016

Well shit ! i thought you were talking about lead poisoning...my bad (pretty good route BTW)

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