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Shipwreck Wall - East Face
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Blue Light Special S 
Bolt From the Blue S 
Fish N' Chips S 
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Marooned S 
More Sandy than Kevin S 
Mothers Milk S 
Purple Aces S 
Riptide S 
Rising Tides S 
Skipper's Little Buddy, The S 
Slab Happy S 
Stoney Surfer, The S 
Tsunami S 
Walking While Intoxicated S 

The Stoney Surfer 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Collins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 645
Submitted By: Alan Collins on Mar 3, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Top of the ShipWreck Gully

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Description 

The Stoney Surfer features hard arete climbing (the first crux) followed by a powerful crux on good holds. The ending bit is probably in the low 5.11 range, but it can sustain a good pump. Although this is a new route, the rock quality is remarkable. The hard climbing has perfect rock with beautiful streaks running down it. The climbing after the cruxes is still good, but not as perfect as at the crux.

It shares the first two bolts with Rising Tides and then branches out left. Start of on some chossy rock that is surprisingly solid. Large blocks are held in place creating jugs that lead to the clipping stance for the 2nd bolt. Looks scarier than it really is! Don't be shy because of the intimidating start.

Traverse into the perfect rock out left and begin the first crux after clipping the 3rd bolt. The first crux is both powerful and delicate but good body positioning makes it doable. The rock on the arete passing the 3rd bolt is as good as any rock in the park! Get a decent rest and begin the 2nd crux passing the 4th bolt. The crux is outright powerful but at least features decent holds. After the cruxes, work your way up the last 3 bolts of 5.11- climbing.

Location 

Left of Rising Tides and Tsunami at the top of the ShipWreck Gully. Starts of Rising Tides 2 bolt.

Protection 

7 bolts plus anchors (anchors are not fixed with steel carabiners)


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By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
May 10, 2017

A high quality addition to the Tsunami amphitheater. Although short, the movement and rock is very good!

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