REI Community
Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Widow T 
Curtains T 
Dagoba System TR 
Easter Overhang T 
Nightingale T 
Sometimes a Great Notion T 
Stevens Pass Motel T 
Sting, The T 
Yellow Bird T 

The Sting 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,047
Submitted By: Eric8 on Apr 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Jon Pobst leading the short traverse to get to the...

Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock MORE INFO >>>


This route is located directly below ROTC. Do to some confusion in the older Leavenworth Rock guidebook people frequently get on this thinking it is the 10b approach to ROTC, that I believe that is the right most of these two routes. At 11b this is no one move wonder but an endurance crux despite a sit down ledge at the midpoint.

Its best to do a short pitch to the base of the corner and belay at the tree. From here continue up the corner, much harder than it looks, it felt like I was using every trick in the book. Hands, fists, stemming, chimney technique, I switched the side of the corner my back was on at least 3 times. If you thought this pitch was going to be 10b then your expecting crack above to be a bomber hand crack. Instead you get a slightly right trending 0.75 camalot crack. You can put your left toe in the crack but your right foot has to make use of flexing lichen covered flakes...this crack takes you to the sit down ledge.

Above the ledge grunt up an offwidth for 15ft or so feet and then tackle a hand/layback crack that would be much easier if it wasn't for all the climbing below.


I had gear to 3.5 camalot but I would not have complained if I had a #4 for the ow.

Photos of The Sting Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Pobst leading starting up The Sting. Definitel...
BETA PHOTO: Jon Pobst leading starting up The Sting. Definitel...
Rock Climbing Photo: The mighty Hummerchine, getting ready for the pump...
The mighty Hummerchine, getting ready for the pump...

Comments on The Sting Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Wolford
Jul 14, 2011

We always called this climb 10b, so not sure how it got to be a 11b. It is defintely physical but the jams are all there.
By GregH
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 15, 2011

BOLD: The guidebook lists this as 10b-
sandbag or not this thing will get you flash pumped if you don't typically warm up on 5.11
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 19, 2014

The 2010 book says 10b for this and the right crack ( Wasp) is 10a.But the first Kramar book says Wasp is 11b, and Sting is still 10b.
FA: Jim Stuart, no date and it is not in the 1965 book so maybe between 1965 and 1968. FFA: Jim Madsen, Kim Schmitz, 1968! I wonder how they protected it, most of the wide cracks of that time had fixed wood blocks in them.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Apr 16, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I remember it as 10b, but agree it is pretty pumpy at the end and would now rate it as hard 10.

Perhaps the thinking went (back "then") that it could not be hard 10 or easy 11 because it was all hand jams. And who can fall out of a hand jam?
By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Apr 21, 2016

Okay. Should I change the grade?

I flashed several 11's in Leavenworth that weekend and this thing easily felt the hardest, so that is why I thought it was the 11-. Maybe I just missed something.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Apr 21, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

No need to change any grades.
Mt. Project has switched to consensus ratings, with the original rating giving a little more weight. So, as more people vote on the rating, the less the original grade matters.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About