REI Community
Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
7 year itch T,S 
Air Male T,S 
Arch Crack T,S 
Bastard T 
Bloody Mary T 
Borderline T 
Bushido (Pitch 1 only) T 
C-Tips S 
Calvary Hill  S 
Casual Observer T,S 
Certified Raw T 
Chik'n Garbonzo T 
Cirrhosis T 
Cooney-Norton T 
Cosmopolitan Wall T 
Earthly Night S 
Fastest Gun, The T 
Firing Line T 
FM, The T 
Foreplay T 
Freedom Flight T 
Gamesmanship T 
Grapes of Wrath T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Green Onion T 
Group Therapy T 
Gun Control Now T 
Hang 'Em High T,S 
Home Rule S 
It Don't Come Easy T 
Junior Varsity T 
Karmic Kickback S 
La Spirale T 
Ladder T 
Lost Chance aka The Natural  T 
Macho T,S 
Maestro T 
Mayflower T 
Menace To Sobriety S 
Morning Star T 
Munchky Microarete S 
P.T. Pillar T 
Pandemonium T 
Paralysis T 
Phase III T 
Pilgrim's Progress T 
Pillar T 
Psalm 32 T,S 
Psychosis T 
Puppies on Edge T 
Ragtime T 
Raindance T 
Raptor's Scream S 
Rapture, The T,S 
Salad Days S 
Scallion T 
Smear Campaign T 
Snake Slide T 
Snake, The T 
Snatch, The T 
Son of a Mother T,S 
Son of Slime T 
Southern Hospitality p1 T 
Static Cling T,S 
Sting, The T 
Sunburst Arete T 
Thunderhead T 
Ukiah S 
Varsity T 

The Sting 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Geoff Smith, Gary Allan, Dave Hough, 8/75
Page Views: 4,856
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Oct 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Climber on The Sting

  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a stellar route! The Sting climbs an independent line immediately to the left of the beginning hand crack of Gamesmanship.

    The climber has a choice to either begin the first 6 feet of Gamesmanship and step to the left trending crack of the Sting, or alternately and possibly a little harder, one can begin on small crimps directly below the beginning of the left-angling crack. Despite the chosen launching off point, you will encounter a tricky traverse followed by mitt-swallowing jams up a tremendous crack. You'll encounter a very brief off-hands section; however, a couple of #3 Camalots can help ease off-width-itis.

    The route ends on the Sting Traverse Ledge at a bolted anchor threaded with some webbing and quick links. (Note: This anchor should be replaced!)


    100 feet to the right of the Positive Thinking clearing is a pair of cracks. The Sting is the lefthand crack that traverses out to the left.


    A full rack with doubles from green to yellow Camalot sizes. An assortment of smaller gear with some RPs is welcomed.

    Photos of The Sting Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of The Sting. The climber in the b...
    Nearing the top of The Sting. The climber in the b...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Worth exiting the traverse near the start of The S...
    Worth exiting the traverse near the start of The S...

    Comments on The Sting Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Dan G0D5H411
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Oct 12, 2009
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    For an added bit of fun climbing, don't traverse left to the ledge/anchors. Keep heading up and traverse right across the face towards Gamesmanship, passing a flake with a fixed stopper. Finish on the last 20 feet of gamesmanship. We used a 70m rope to rap off the first pitch of Gamesmanship, but not sure if that was neccessary or not.
    By Greg Kuchyt
    From: Richmond, VT
    Aug 3, 2010
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    There is a 5.9 start variation a few feet to the left of the shared start with Gamesmanship. Make a couple bouldery moves up the face to a few incut buckets and gain the traverse. This is a good way to start the route if there is a party on P1 of Gamesmanship.
    By Eli Kramer
    From: Saratoga Springs, NY
    Aug 23, 2010
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I also recommend the 5.9 start. Fun moves.
    By Simon Thompson
    From: New Paltz, NY
    Nov 24, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    The Sting and Gamesmanship are maybe the two best 5.8s I've climbed in the park and it's just SO convenient that they are right next to each other.
    By Daniel Israel
    From: Montreal, Quebec
    Aug 26, 2014

    amazing climb. I've always dreamed of jamming fist after fist like in the movies.
    By Jackson vermeulen
    Sep 14, 2015

    Continuing up the the first pitch anchors of Gamesmanship requires a 70m rope to rappel. I ended up at those anchors with a single 60m and had to do a short rappel to The Sting's anchors to make it back to the ground.
    By Dom R
    From: Estes Park, Colorado
    Apr 26, 2016

    My favorite pitch of 5.8 in the park, though quite tough in the grade. I find that gaining the large spike feature at the base of the splitter hand crack/end of the fingercrack is the crux. You can stop and relax in the middle of the finger traverse, it's not as bad as it looks from the ground. After all of that it's perfect hands/cupped hands to the top.
    By Robert Hall
    From: North Conway, NH
    Jun 22, 2016
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    If you want to up the grade a bit more on the variation start to the left, do the beginning moves to the "bucket handhold horizontal crack" completely statically, i.e. no semi-dyno to the holds. I saw this done once beautifully.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About