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Fantasy Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aesthetica S 
Black and Tan T 
Blackhappy S 
Doce Doe T 
Erotica S 
Fantasy T 
Fantasy Face S 
Jet Cap S 
May the 4th be with you.  T 
Mowed out mama T 
Mr. Fantasy S 
New Fangled Dangle T 
Orgasmatron, The T 
Riddle S 
Stick, The S 
Tide, The T 
Two-Step Arete T 
Virgin Thing S 

The Stick 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed, 1992
Page Views: 1,012
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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You will most likely want to stick clip the first bolt. Start by climbing up to reach the low overhang and then make good use of the arete that begins to form as you climb higher. Move through an easy section to reach the small overhang under the arete. Pull this small overhang using high steps and crimps to gain the face to the left of the arete (crux). Continue up the face until the arete ends and head toward the right side of the 3 ft wide overhang. Hand traverse under the overhang and pull it on the left side. The traverse is a bit heady and you probably don't want to fall here. (This traverse could be better protected by placing a cam if you are concerned). Easier climbing on the left side of the face above the overhang will take you to the anchors.


Start about 15 ft to the left of the start of Black and Tan and about 10 ft to the right of the start of Virgin Thing.


8 bolts, shuts. (If you choose to supplement the protection on the traverse, bring a #2 or #3 Camalot.)

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