REI Community
Thor Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
South east couloir T 
Stemwinder, The T 

The Stemwinder 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: William Rice, Robert Brinton, Glen Dawson 9/7/1936
Page Views: 1,496
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jun 16, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Great views from up high on the Stemwinder route

Access limited from May to October every year MORE INFO >>>


An "old school" (1936!) route which winds its way up the right-side of the huge south face of Thor Peak.

Traverse left on a ledge from the near the right-end of the south face to get to the start of the route. A 10' class 3-4 chimney must be overcome to get to P1. P1 is marked with a fixed piton and stopper right off the deck. Make the crux 5.4 chimney move and gain easier ground heading up and right. Many options exist between class 3 and easy 5th. Choose your own adventure. You are aiming for a small red pinnacle which is passed behind from the left. Some easy but very exposed slab moves out right lead to left-leaning ramps/cracks, marked with the occasional fixed angle-piton. Once on the ridge, head west up class 2 talus to the summit of Thor Peak. I descended the north-east slope into the N Fork of Lone Pine Creek. If you do this, you will need to carry all your stuff. There may be another descent nearer to the south face.


Right hand side of the south face. Follow the main Whitney Trail, but before you reach signs for Lone Pine Lake go cross-country up and right through forest and slabs to access the wall. 1.5-2 hours from the Portal.


Light alpine rack, some fixed pins.

Photos of The Stemwinder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another photo overlay of Stemwinder, taken from Ou...
Another photo overlay of Stemwinder, taken from Ou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stemwinder photo overlay.  photo credit: rhyang / ...
Stemwinder photo overlay. photo credit: rhyang / ...

Comments on The Stemwinder Add Comment
Show which comments
By amockalypsenow
From: San Diego
Feb 4, 2017

Has this seen a winter ascent?
By Joel Ryan
From: New York, New York
Apr 21, 2017


Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About