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Squamish Buttress
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Pan Tease Lower T 
Squamish Butt Face, The T 
Squamish Buttress, The T 

The Squamish Butt Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: L. Zamorano, B. Moon, S. Trotter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 12,334
Submitted By: John Wilder on Aug 20, 2010

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Starting up the last "crux" pitch of But...


This is a new variation to the Squamish Buttress that follows that route up to a ways below the .10c exit pitch before breaking left into the face on the gully and following ledges and crack systems up to the summit.

It is getting good feedback from folks who have climbed it so far and is cleaned and well protected- should be a nice addition to the Chief's moderate summit routes.

More information at Sonnie's Blog:


Begins at the big block midway through Pitch 4 on Squamish Buttress. See topo.


Same rack as for Squamish Buttress.

Photos of The Squamish Butt Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rose leading the Chimney pitch
Rose leading the Chimney pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo for the route, credit Sonnie Trotter.
BETA PHOTO: Topo for the route, credit Sonnie Trotter.

Comments on The Squamish Butt Face Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 19, 2017
By Steve Murphy
From: Loveland, CO
Dec 30, 2010

This is a great addition, thank you Sonnie Trotter et al for establishing this! The first pitch offers great exposure on a 5.8, while the second pitch will likely offer 5.9 leaders a new experience. It's clean and ready to go.

I skipped the belay bolts and continued on the ledge till time to go up, and belayed there with the bolt and a nut. Less rope drag and easier communication on the second pitch.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

So much fun. I misunderstood the topo to think that the last pitch is 5.5, but it's the crux pitch with a 5.9 weird corner/flaring chimney section. It's rad, rig the pitches so you can do it. You don't need wide gear for it, but if you're squeamish you could probably fit a #4 Camelot in the back.
By Mark van Eijk
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route, thanks Sonnie! I think I'm with Steve on skipping the belay bolts, waiting until the switchback/mantle significantly reduces rope drag for the chimney section. You can belay either off the bolt and gear or off the tree at the end of the ledge. The ledges to the top are easy, but pretty exposed and I definitely felt more comfortable plugging the occasional piece of gear (with generous runners) and staying roped for this section rather than scrambling.
By Adrian Lazar
Jul 28, 2011

An easy fun route to take a novice to the top of the Chief. The "shoulder crack" pitch is fun. You can get up to the start of this route via a number of routes, we found that cruising up Slab Alley and Granville Street was the best as the other lines are usually quite busy on a sunny weekend.
By harihari
May 14, 2012

You do not need a #4 camalot for this. A .5 and a #1 or #2 perfectly protect that weird very cool flareg pseudo-chimney thingy.

If you have the option of doing this or the 10c, I would recommend the 10c-- it is a much cleaner, more direct etc pitch, but this is a great bypass for those who are tired and don't want to make the other 27 Sunday afternoon Buttress parties wait until dark while they aid the 10c pitch ;-)
By See Brown
Jun 12, 2012

Updated route info here .. Sonnie Trotters topo doesn't seem to be that accurate.

Squamish Butt Face
By Ed kelly
Jul 22, 2014

Really nice way to spend an afternoon. Has some great little sections, and it's well worth the less good stuff to get to the views from the top. One note though, the pitch 1 variation at the start of the buttress is 5.9 in the book, but I really thought it was a solid awkward 5.10a/b. so is you're near you limit go for the original start.
By BrettAtBond
Aug 17, 2014

Our group finished up st vitus with this variation and the 5.9 face pitch of butt lite was the unanimous favorite of the party. The chimney is fun too. Definitely worth checking out, especially for a consistent finish to any of the moderates up the apron.
By B-Slim
From: San Jose
May 15, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Traverse Pitch (P1) of Butt Light
Traverse Pitch (P1) of Butt Light
By Serge Smirnov
Aug 28, 2016

Might want a #4 to protect the chimney if you're short - good small cam placement from a comfortable stance seemed to require some reach.
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
May 30, 2017

A revolver biner on the first bolt of the traverse pitch will significantly cut back on rope drag and make a smooth lead all the way to the tree.

I was pretty tired after a hot day on Rock On, but still found the chimney a really enjoyable lead. I got back far into it with my face against the wall and was able to plug in a finger size cam before getting my left shoulder in.

If you want to protect bits on the terraces consider clipping the rope to the racking biner of your cam and pulling it after the move. If you leave much pro here the drag would be horrible. I put in two pieces after the chimney and it was a breeze belaying my second.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Jun 19, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Route (and area) is currently closed due to falcon nesting. Check here for updates:

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