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j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
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Lost in Yellow  T 
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 
No Man's Land T 
Nose, The T 
Oblique Twique T 
Scary Area T 
Shit Creek T 
Spring (P1), The T 
Sting, The T 
Summer, The T 
Tiers of Fear T 
Torture Garden T 
Tweak or Freak T 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 
Vader T 
Ventre de Boeuf T 
Wasp Stop T 
Winter, The T 
Wrath of the Lamb  T 
Yellow Wall, The T 

The Spring (P1) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ryan, Crowther and Nelson (FA, 1962) Reppy and Streibert (FFA, 1964)
Page Views: 3,686
Submitted By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (96)
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The Spring's P1 crux


Excellent corner climbing with a well-protected crux. The lower part of the route can be tricky to protect well. While the crux is turning the rooflet midway through the corner, the moves at the top of the corner has its moments!

There are two more pitches to the cliff top, which up the route's overall rating to 5.10. Also, a variation to P1 climbs the face and arete to the right of the corner at 5.10X ("Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too", FA 1985, Franklin and Mills).

In early season or after a larger rainfall, the namesake water flow spouting from the base of the route can be several feet high and wide. You may be able to traverse in to the corner, but - maybe not.


The obvious left-facing corner right of The Winter, and 50 feet right of Bold-Ville.

Descent: a bolted anchor, which serves as a common anchor for the Seasons, is on top of the block where the first pitch ends.


Standard rack.

Photos of The Spring (P1) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Megan works the beginning moves of The Spring
Megan works the beginning moves of The Spring
Rock Climbing Photo: Darek Kuczynski on The Spring corner
Darek Kuczynski on The Spring corner

Comments on The Spring (P1) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dan Flynn
From: MA
Oct 10, 2010

Do p2 -- following Grey Dick, it crosses left, over p1 of the winter. Use the second fixed gear anchor above p1 of the winter (not the one normally used for tr'ing the winter).

A wicked fun roof problem awaits at the top, 10b and more like pg-13. Save a .5 C4 for the crux.
By paulmadry
Aug 17, 2011

Or go straight up and do 2nd pitch of winter as in the new guidebook. Spicy move on the face with good pro below it. Just trust that a hold will show up once you get on the face.
By rogerbenton
Nov 10, 2013

Stopped and stood there midway between the overhang and the ground for like 3 minutes dicking around trying to get a micro nut in. Finally gave up and just went to the overhang. After, we watched another party climb it, the leader stopped halfway to the overhang and stood there for like 3 minutes trying to dick in a micro nut before finally giving up and heading upwards... Great little pitch though.

Also- I submit that 'Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too" (which according to the grey Dick is the arete and RIGHT face just to the right of The Spring) is a touch tougher than 10+.
IMO it felt harder than the first pitch of The Winter (10d) and most of The Summer (11d).
By Alec Orenstein
From: Gallup, NM
Jun 17, 2016

Definitely keep going through the old second pitch of The Winter (i.e., just keep going through the right-leaning left-facing (somewhat vague) corner above). There's only one move of 5.10 near the top, and you can easily traverse right beforehand to keep the entire thing at a very consistent, long 5.9. (See App.) Easy to do in one pitch.

Agreed with Dan that the (old) second pitch of The Spring that crosses left is an amazing pitch (although I think it's hard 10), but much better done as a continuation of The Winter in one pitch--you can even lower from the anchor with a 60 (barely).
By Systematic
Jul 5, 2016

Excellent pitch. I think a really good intro 9.

GEAR BETA On P1 there is a small astronut placement good for downward pull about 8' off the deck. There is also a pod that will fit bomber multi-directional protection ~3-4' under the roof.
By rogerbenton
Oct 26, 2016

There is definitely a bomber pod 3-4" ABOVE the roof that will swallow a #6 BD nut, but I don't know about this "under the roof" placement.
I could be missing something but I think Mrkb3 meant 'above' instead of 'below' the roof.
By Systematic
Nov 10, 2016

Roger -- I did mean below the roof, as written. In a recently posted photo you can see the placement (and the exact piece) used.

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