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Lower Small Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aptly Named 
Blue Biner T 
Caterpillar Crack T 
DAB Chimney T 
Der Kommissar T 
Dicey at Best T 
Double Caves Crack T 
Good Tang T 
Hierarchy 
Lost Dart T 
Lost Dart Crack T 
Love Hurts 
Seven-Ten Split 
Spider Squat, The T 
Weasel, The 
Unsorted Routes:

The Spider Squat 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ed Pearsall, Jay Collins
Page Views: 163
Submitted By: Jordan K on Jun 8, 2014

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Description 

The Spider Squat is rated three stars in Ray Ellington's guide (3rd ed), but it should be avoided due to a gigantic (and pretty much unavoidable) nest of poison ivy on a ledge at the top of the first pitch. It is nearly impossible to step around, and more than likely you will stick your head right in it as you try to get onto the ledge. At the very least, wear pants and long sleeves.
The climbing is decent but not amazing. The route finding after the first pitch was very confusing. After climbing a crack in decent left-facing dihedral on the first pitch, you arrive at a large ledge under a giant overhang. Moving up and left and traversing around a bulge gets you to another large ledge. Where the route goes from there is anybody's guess. From Ellington's description we couldn't figure it out, and so we rapped off a large tree.

Location 

About 100 ft to the left (facing the cliff) of Dicey at Best is a large left-facing dihedral.

Protection 

Standard trad rack


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