The Spice of Life
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
Type: | Sport, Alpine, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Kennedy/Fransen '00 |
Page Views: | 1,009 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | R Walters on Sep 22, 2014 |
Admins: | Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal raptor closures: Scary Canyon, Face Canyon, Highway Face, Steep Wall, Far Side, and Nixon Head (updated 3/15/24)
Details
Adding new bolts, new anchors, and new routes at the Black Cliffs are currently NOT ALLOWED pending a BLM environmental assessment. Significant trail work is also on hold. Please contact the Boise Climbers Alliance with questions or for additional information
Description
Climb low-5th class, broken rock to a ledge and the first bolt at 15-20'. Clipping this with a long draw will reduce drag. From here, follow the obvious line up increasingly better rock to the 5th and last bolt just above the small roof. Clip this and move straight up, pulling on pockets and edges of varying degrees of positivity to the chains.
The route is a bit contrived as it is possible to use the left arete after the last bolt to bring the route down to .10b as listed in the book. This
involves moving into what I thought to be dangerous fall potential above a broken column top.
If the starting bit of rock and the upper contrivances are disregarded, this thing is pretty good. It protects well (when climbed directly) and the boulder problem at the crux is fun and on great rock.
The route is a bit contrived as it is possible to use the left arete after the last bolt to bring the route down to .10b as listed in the book. This
involves moving into what I thought to be dangerous fall potential above a broken column top.
If the starting bit of rock and the upper contrivances are disregarded, this thing is pretty good. It protects well (when climbed directly) and the boulder problem at the crux is fun and on great rock.
Location
First bolted line left of Macabre Roof. Look for the first bolt above the ledge about 15' from the deck.
Photos
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